Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can some one plz describe the effects a sticky blowoff would have

the car jolts 3 times once after you go to about 20% throttle or off boost i spose after you give it over 1/2 boost or so...

i took the bovs out yesterday and one was slightly sticky to push in and would sometimes close momentarily stopping halfway....

is this my drama with jolting? or it is something eles that needs attendance 2?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293678-sticky-blowoff-valve-need-help/
Share on other sites

can some one plz describe the effects a sticky blowoff would have

the car jolts 3 times once after you go to about 20% throttle or off boost i spose after you give it over 1/2 boost or so...

i took the bovs out yesterday and one was slightly sticky to push in and would sometimes close momentarily stopping halfway....

is this my drama with jolting? or it is something eles that needs attendance 2?

So does it feel like its missing or actually been forced back?!?

Not something as simple as plugs?

U checked them?

its not a miss as its only when u come off boost. i cleaned all the afm traced back the blow off returns and found that one blow off had a sticky shaft inside... so i put it down to that... the plugs were only changed back a bit but could allways do with a check up.clean i spose.

Hmmm.... Well like ur saying, ur coming off boost (shouldnt be missing then) and its doin the jolting!

I just dont see the BOV jolting the car?!?!

Seems like a fuel/air/spark thing normaly!!!

try completely blocking off the BOV's and see if the car still jolts etc....if not then problem solvered but if problem still there then get some second hand BOV's

but to my little knowledge i dont think its the BOV's causing that issue......

Checked none of the hose clamps have come loose and all intake hoses are on nice and tight?

Had something similar a while a go, when backing off at around 70kmh the car would jolt, was just a loose clamp.

this might be dodgy, but i see no harm, take off the bov or leave it on and spray it with CRC or WD40. to loosen it up.

Good sh!t LOL

Duct tape, zippi ties and WD40 fix anything :(

Any luck so far Adam???

Edited by MYCEF3

All ready tried a clean and lube.. it improved movement a bit but still doing it....

Perhaps someone has a spare set of 33 gtr stock or AM BOV's to lend cheff for half a day to see if that rids the issue?

lol its just such a prick coz basicly the whole front bar needs to come off to get to them lol....

tryed lubing it and it didnt do much. if i blocked it... it will just flutter and hopfuly get rid of the jolt... ill also check plugs... but too all the intake out and sused out all the clamps and hoses and no love...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean it's a bit late to say "This won't have any tangible effect and it is not worth spending more than about three seconds on it, please just enjoy the car" But I said it anyway. Does the pod actually get any airflow in that position behind a bumper like that?
    • Hey guys - apologies for digging this up. Has this website been shutdown or is the outage temporary?
    • So, went shopping at Just Jap for things that might work for the intake  After some trial fitting there I ended up with a 3" x 45° silicone bend, a 3" x 300mm alloy straight, and a humped joiner, some minor trimming will be required to shorten some of the stuff, but nothing that is beyond my "ham fisted" skills The guy at Just Jap was most helpful as we had all sorts of joiners,  bends and stuff out trial fitting  Laying it out above the stuff in there it seems everything will fit nicely, and looking at it, it is probably the way I should have been looking at doing it from the beginning, probably..... In the end it is a front bar off job anyway to remove the original stuff behind the front bar that is taking up the required realestate needed, so maybe a Thursday or Friday job And because I'm a hopeless consumer, I grabbed some new steel wheel nuts, the current ones are a spline drive type with a "security" socket, that somehow someone keeps misplacing, the new ones are a basic black steel 17mm hex socket In other news: I just did my "final" tax return, I am now officially a old retired veteran pensioner, and I'm milking the system for all it's worth,  life is good
    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
×
×
  • Create New...