Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am going to pick my car up from the tuners this weekend. He says mechanically it came up a treat, but he doesn't like my 4.9:1 ratio R180 LSD at all, on the grounds that the car wants to spend all its time up at a really high rev range, and so it isn't making the most out of it's torque. I don't like the idea of losing acceleration, but he says the diff isn't making the most of the engine's potential anyway.

He's pushing me to convert a 3.9:1 diff to LSD, arguing that his Datsun 1600 ran out of legs on the Phillip Island straight using a 4.4 ratio. His diff builder does the conversion surprisingly cheaply.

The car is a Skyline C210 sedan, with L28, triples, (making maybe 150hp?) marginally lighter than the 1210kg standard. It has a SR20det 5 speed, with the following ratios (I think):

1st: 3.321

2nd: 1.902

3rd: 1.308

4th: 1.000

5th: 0.759

I would like it to remain a quick streeter, that can do the occasional track day with the NDSOC club without being totally put to shame.

Any ideas? 3.9, 4.1, 4.4, leave it alone...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294114-which-diff-for-l28-skyline/
Share on other sites

4.9???

That sounds like a NISMO ratio or the front diff from a 720 4x4 (or were they 5.1's??)

L28 with triples - go for a 3.9 or maybe a 4.1 (3.7 would probably be a bit too tall - 3.54 was too tall for my old L28ET MR30, but man it had some legs!)

I'd expect that a 3.9 would be the standard ratio for the C210 anyway (it was on the MR30)

4.9 is more like the sort of ratio for a rally car - rapid acceleration out of corners, keep the engine up near peak torque.

I reckon something like the 4.1 ('74-on 180B SSS had this ratio) would be a good compromise between acceleration and top speed.

Yeah, go for the 3.9. You've got the same set up as me, and my 3.9 is spot on I reckon. I agree with blind elk, that being a rally diff. You'd have no problem selling it on Bridibella ( rall site). I dynoed my l28 the other day, made 142@ the wheels. The tune was average apparantley,running way to rich. I have 72 grind coming from POWER PLAY which should be in in a week, current grind 68. Then I'm getting it tuned on a dyno, rather than by ear.

4.9 is more like the sort of ratio for a rally car - rapid acceleration out of corners, keep the engine up near peak torque.

I reckon something like the 4.1 ('74-on 180B SSS had this ratio) would be a good compromise between acceleration and top speed.

Except the 180B used an R160...

Well for what it's worth, I'm using a 4.11 in the DR30 with same gear ratios for the likes of Wakefield & Winton, but Eastern Creek I'm going to 3.7 and for the PNV with it's L28et and bags of torque I'm going to use a 3.9 R200 LSD with gear ratios of 1. 3.592, 2. 2.246, 3. 1.415, 4. 1.000, 5. 0.813:1

My theory is on cruise in 5th I will get better driveability with the 3.9/0.813 instead of 4.11/0.833

Cheers, D

say if ya wanted to change the ratios in a r180 from 3.9 to say around 4.11. is there a easy swap from another diff or what else used the r180 in those ratios? just swappin the crown and pinion gear. easy to do it on the r31s bw78's. pinni was 4.11 and skylines were 3.7 and 3.9. then vls were 3.45 i think... wondering if something similar with the r30s etc

cheers..

The SR20 box came with a smashed rally car that I bought complete a couple of years back. I swapped the box, diff, L26 and twin carbs, suspension, wheels and tyres into my fairly stock sedan, and all for the bargain price of $4000... most of which has long since been broken or upgraded anyway.

From memory, the box was a standard C210 five speed, split, with the guts of a second hand SR20 box crammed inside. Apparently the Sr20 internals fitted in "like lego."

'Cause the bell housing is still L-series, the tailshaft and cross-member remain stock C210 items. From memory my gear lever is Datsun, but a slightly different shape to the C210 stick (it's 260Z or something random - a slight L shape rather than straight). Even the gear knob is stock C210.

Ill provide more details ASAP, my receipt file is with the car at the tuners.

My vote is 4.1 :happy:

SR20 box swap involves pulling the sr20 or ca18 bellhousing off the box, getting a L series bellhousing.

1 selector shaft hole in the L series bell needs to be drilled out larger.

You need to pull one of the bearings off the sr20/ca18 box and replace it with the one from a L series box as the L series bearing is slightly smaller in diameter (replace bearing while your there)

Minor metal needs to be taken out off the L series bell due to one of the gears JUST touching it.

For more info, theres a tutorial on ozdat.

I did the swap before the tutorial was made, easy as :)

I am going to experiment with a couple of diffs this weekend. If it feels good, Ill send it off to get the LSD conversion.

However, I cant find a page which mentions which ratio came standard with which car!

Skyline C210 3.9:1?

Datsun 240k 4.1:1?

Mr30 ???

Has anyone committed this stuff to memory?

Also found the receipt for the gearbox conversion. $1300 from Mammi Motors in Vic, including brass button clutch, flywheel machining, swapping the internals over. The Sr20 box was supplied by the previous owner.

So is the R30.

But you won't find many IRS S12's around in Aus.

Your best bet for non-CV is 240/260Z automatic - 3.9:1

I wonder if you can fit R30 axles to C210 arms? I would be very surprised if there was no compatibility there. Changing the arms would probably be easiest, if feasible.

Cheers Ricky, that's a really nice offer. I'll see if I can't first find something a bit closer though - we both know that Vic-WA freight stings a bit! On the topic I've got some seat covers for you... If you're interested PM me your details again and we can ship them over.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...