Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, ill try and get some pictures up tomorrow.

Im going overseas in a couple of weeks so need to sell my car.

Car is a Wine red R32 with RB25 conversion. Motor has 80 000 km on the clock. Chassis has 150 000 from memory... ill have to confirm that.

The good

Recently the tensioner let go and my valves bent. When replacing them i decided to clean up the whole top end to had all manufacturing imperfections clean up on the head. Also has new head gasket and head surfaced, valves and stem seals, tensioner and idler pulley. Also new exhaust and inlet mani gasket..... so head is pretty much as good as new.

Anyway so car has RB25 conversion.

Still has RB20 g/box.

Mods

Buddy club N+ coilovers all round - Awesome suspension BTW, by far the best ive driven on in its price range.

Greddy type m front mount

3" exhaust turbo back

Exedy heavy duty organic clutch

Few things inside, trust gear knob, omori din gauges.

Bosch 040 fuel pump

unknown aftermarket rear camber arms

Rear spoiler off hole filled and resprayed

32 gtr rear wheels

Turbo smart plumback BOV

Paint work is great condition, comes up a treat, i really wish i had the time get it professionally cut and polished.

What i'd suggest doing

Some of these may well get done if i can find time before i go:

Left rear wheel bearing to be replaced... i have bearing unit sitting in my bedroom, just gotta get out the and change over.

Left rear camber to be adjusted more + or right more - as they are uneven and pulls to the left..... so basically needs a wheel alignment.

It is running rather rich on standard ECU and pops and farts a bit on de-acceleration and dumping a bit too much fuel when it comes on boost, so i'd at-least get a copgy back tune.

Has a dint about the size of a 5c coin on the boot lid, not very deep at all. also a chip about 2mm in diameter on rear quater panel also another small dint on roof. Other than that body is straight.

I have had the engineering check done for car and paid half of the fee ($250) there are a couple of small things required for the cert plus the remaining $250

So thats all i can think of at the moment. I've tried to explain everything i can think of.

Honestly, this car has been very well looked after. Its rarely driven and serviced regularly with mobil 1.

Id really love to spend a month or so getting it to where i want for sale but i simply dont have time.

Price is $8500 negotiable. Feel free to make offers, most likely, best reasonable offer within 2 weeks will get it.

Located in east burbs of Mlebourne

Edited by vitz_n1

Hey all. Real sorry about the delay with pics. just been flat out and everytime i wash my car it bloody rains.

It is not registered with the 25. Just needs to have the engineering finalised. I have the report and receipt, all the needs to be done is finish off the few things that the engineer requires and pay $250. It also has 6 months reg.

Ill try go get some pics now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...