Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone ill try and keep this short.

Iv been running my rb20det for 6 months at the final map of 402bhp fly and 375lftb.

On attending a drift day at one of the bigger tracks ready for next years competition season to start i developed a knocking noise, it was then deemed to be bottom end :happy: .

So... i want to rebuild the 20 ( no i dont want to go rb25 before anyone says it will save money )

so as you guys down under seem to be pretty keen on the rb20's what info and sources can you give me on getting uprated parts for decent money as no wear in the uk supplies such things.

Im talking forged pistons & rods etc...

any help and input appreciated

Hi everyone ill try and keep this short.

Iv been running my rb20det for 6 months at the final map of 402bhp fly and 375lftb.

On attending a drift day at one of the bigger tracks ready for next years competition season to start i developed a knocking noise, it was then deemed to be bottom end :happy: .

So... i want to rebuild the 20 ( no i dont want to go rb25 before anyone says it will save money )

so as you guys down under seem to be pretty keen on the rb20's what info and sources can you give me on getting uprated parts for decent money as no wear in the uk supplies such things.

Im talking forged pistons & rods etc...

any help and input appreciated

Did u spin a rod bearing? You could try and find a good crank and add the oil pump collar and a oil restrictor to the head. Just throw in some new rings and bearings and be on your way. http://www.spoolimports.com/ sells forged rods and pistons for the RB20 if u want to go that route.

Did u spin a rod bearing? You could try and find a good crank and add the oil pump collar and a oil restrictor to the head. Just throw in some new rings and bearings and be on your way. http://www.spoolimports.com/ sells forged rods and pistons for the RB20 if u want to go that route.

I havent taken it all of yet to see axactly what has happened.

sorry if i sound stupid here but whats an oil pump collar and oil restrictor to the head is it something to prevent oil starvation like the 26's suffer from.

Iv been reading lots of other threads about the 2. builds and im definatley thinking of doing the 2.2 which involves parts that are fairly easy to come buy .

ive built a 20 that will be sure to produce the goods. there are so many ways people will tell you to go. i dont use the rods as mentioned above i dont use oil restrictors as that isnt the problem as every one thinks.

Edited by boostn32

^ pretty sure not, but I'd love to know for sure as well cause my 20 is poo'd out and my mate has a 25de with a snapped cam that I'm currently in the midst of sourcing a head for.

If they fit that'd be great to know.

I have been making about 425hp at the fly for a while now and the internals seem pretty happy. Before buying parts be sure to remove the engine and strip it down and make sure you know the root cause of your problem.

After stripping you may find that your pistons and rods are fine, but your crank badly damaged from a spun bearing. If thats the case then it would confirm what i suspect and thats the internals are ok for that power, but what you have to work on is the control of oil pressure, oil temperature and coolant temperature. You may find you will just as easily spin another bootm end bearing with a fully forged motor if you have not addressed oil presure and tempeature issues and made sure you keep coolant temp under control as well.

So the money you are about to spend on rods and pistons may be better spent on Tomei/Jun/Grex etc oil pump and better oil cooler setup

Cheers Roy some good advice there i must say i was planning on uprating the oil pump and also fitting an oil cooler.

does anyone know of what 4agze pistons i need or where i can get fully forged rb20det ones ???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
    • att.4QNbuJlz_gNZPFBGFqeEvxSUHXkGt7z40V59MrtXTPg.mp4    
    • Plan on the day will be to park trackside. Depending on space availability we will try put a small shade tent and a few of the cars on top of the hill inside turn 3, this is an easy to get to parking area with views of Turn 2, Turn 3, Turn 4 and Turn 5 and limited other pieces of the view around the track. IMPORTANT NOTE! One consideration from previous years is from memory the trackside parking sells out before the admission tickets, for that reason I encourage anyone planning on coming to buy tickets for parking now via the official website; https://www.worldtimeattack.com/ The type of parking you are looking for is 2 Day Park & View (Access Around Venue) Vehicle Pass Only Please note this does not include admission to the event itself, remember to grab that also, and kids under 12 get in for free!
×
×
  • Create New...