Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My volk gt-7 wheels all have a cloudy sort of stain on the lips that wont wash off.

Does anyone have any idea how to remove these stains.....its from when i got my car washed after getting serviced!

ive spoken to magman at punchbowl and he said he wouldnt be able to help me.

Ive tried a quick polish but it doesnt work. Maybe a professional detail???? im getting dr detail out in 3 weeks to detail my car so im hoping he can polish it out!

otherwise does anyone recommend a particular wheel shop that could maybe re finish the lips??

Appreciate any help and advice.

Im located in sydney by the way.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294563-help-volk-gt-7s-stained-lips/
Share on other sites

Does anyone have any idea how to remove these stains.....its from when i got my car washed after getting serviced!

cheers

Was it washed at where you got the car serviced?

If so, what the hell did he use?

If so, shouldn't they rectify it?

If so, take pics to them of before and after!

BTW, can you post up before & after pics here?

mostly likely the Volks run a clearcoat over their polished lips similar to Work rims - this clearcoat can discolour just like paint

Here is a pic of some polished meisters after a cure cycle for powdercoating, as you can see the clear is there as it has gone gold.

IMG_0132.jpg

ran a set of volks through a prebake cycle on sunday - they were silver paint and annodised lips - these also discoloured similarly

this suggests that something attacked the clear and to resolve you may need to strip the clear and polish the lips as bare alloy (meaning always having to repolish) - without pics it could be hard to say much more.

clear annodising can be removed with a few solutions (oven cleaner or lye solutions) but there are hazards there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...