Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1997 R33 Series 2 120,000kms

I have owned the car for a little over a year, before that it was owned by a friend for a about a year.

Serviced Every 5000km or less with Motul turbo light 10w 40w

Motul Diff Oil

Redline Gearbox Oil

Modifications,

Apexi Power FC Tuned at 12psi (made 201kw)

Blitz Dual SBC boost controller

Split Fire Coil Packs

Walboro Fuel pump

Blitz turbo timer

R34 Turbo (OP6)

RB20 Wastegate Actuator (10 psi)

Split Dump/front Pipe

3in Hi Flow cat (inside not bashed out)

3.5 inch HKS Hi Power Exhaust

Apexi Power intake filter on custom made Metal intake pipe onto the turbo

(Pod not totally boxed in but covered over see photos below)

Standard RRB20 Blow off valve

Greddy Front Mount Inter cooler and piping

Alloy Radiator

Heavy Duty Excedy Clutch

Braided Clutch Line

Braided Brake Lines (ADR approved)

Master cylinder stopper

Front and Rear Strut Braces

Bilstein Shocks and King Springs

Front Whiteline adjustable Castor Bushes (adjustable on car)

Rear Whiteline Camber Bushes

Work Emotions CR KAI 18 x 8.5 in all round

235/35/18 federal 595 SS on the front (70%)

235/35/18 Sumitomo HTR Z 3 on the rear (70%)

Work Wheel Nuts

M Spec side skirts and rear pods

33 GTR rear seat

Have had the Roof lining, A-Pillar and B/C Pillar trims redone in Black Suede (haven't done the sun visors yet)

Only need front GTR seats and interior done

White LEDs' in the cluster

Have Changed the AC Panel, cigarette lighter surround and ignition barrel surround lights all to blue LEDs'

Pioneer Head Deck (DEH-P6850MP)

Pioneer Front Speakers and tweeter

Pioneer Rear 6in Speakers

And finally the rear "Skyline" Boot garnish lights up red with taillights :(

There is probably more little bits and pieces i have forgotten but i think that will do, Basically the car has never missed a beat in the last 2 years runs great drives beautifully and handles well. Overall i think its one of the nicest R33's running around. Has been my pride and joy for a little over a year but its time for me to move on, Pictures Below feel free to ask any questions.

Price - $18,990 Will get RWC upon Sale

Plates Not Included

PM for my contact details if you are interested

and have a few more photos too

Cheers Scott

;)

post-29410-1257156957_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257156991_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157016_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157034_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157048_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157075_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157112_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157554_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1257157585_thumb.jpg

Edited by 13thracer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294572-1997-r33-series-2/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...