Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys my car is pinging since im still running the non turbo fuel pump with a rb25det motor.

i have a bosch 040 fuel pump and a sard fpr and nismo injectors in my room.

im not going to get my car tuned anytime soon so what should i do?

i have a power fc and i goto "ect" and goto the bottom section and click yes, assumed it was factory reset but i let it idle for 30min as it said,

and it doesnt seem to change and the car was still idling rich so i just put the stock 1 back in.

so basically should i just add the 040 pump and do i have to add that fpr aswell?.. or i dont need to change anything else except the pump?

or should i add the nismo injectorss, fpr, 040, and try to reset the pfc and turn the injectors down?

i just want to know what i should do,

#1: 040 -

#2: 040 fpr -

#3: 040 fpr injectors pfc -

thanks

I would stop and have a good think about what you are doing instead of creating about 15 new topics when most of the answers have been asked and answered so many times before.

Changing the pump will make sure you have adequate fuel supply. There is no need to change the FPR or injectors.

Given your reluctance to tune your PFC I am not sure how you will ever sort out all these issues. Doing things half arsed seems to be part of your problem.

If it was my car I would've just bought a fuel pump and installed it. No need for FPR, injectors or PFC.

Regardless of anything, you should install the pump and upgrade your fuel pump wiring.

If the FPR has a gauge built in it will be a handy diagnosis tool, might aswell install it, search the forum for adjusting aftermarket FPR (set it to stock pressures).

If there is no gauge on it then there is no real point to installing it as the standard FPR is fine. Either keep it as a spare or sell it.

The larger injectors are not really needed unless you are going to get it tuned and plan to reach figures higher than the stock injectors will allow.

Again, same with the powerFC. Unless you have decent mods (or plan on them) it's not really needed.

If you really want to put them in the car, find out how to reset the powerFC to standard maps, install it and the injectors, adjust K factor to suit the size of the injectors.

Edited by daisu

So this is an N/A ehgine with a turbo put on it, are you still using the turbo or na injectors, if your using na then i would certainly upgrade to atleast turbo injectors, what ecu are you using na or turbo, either one will not run all that well as the engine is under a completely different set of circumstances that it was designed for, i would park the car untill you had money for a tune, use the bigger injectors, pfc and get a z32 as well, the fpr is an option but really an fpr is mainly used to get a little bit more flow from injectors when they start to run out of steam, this shouldnt happen if you have chosen the right size injectors.

I would stop and have a good think about what you are doing instead of creating about 15 new topics when most of the answers have been asked and answered so many times before.

Changing the pump will make sure you have adequate fuel supply. There is no need to change the FPR or injectors.

Given your reluctance to tune your PFC I am not sure how you will ever sort out all these issues. Doing things half arsed seems to be part of your problem.

Lol I know... 1st I had all my parts and I was told I need a fpr,

then I was told I reallyshould get injectors before my tune so i looked and found some sard injectors,

then everyone said I should get nismo so I saved for them,

them my highflow turbo seals went so now I still can't tune it :down: how annoying this all is...

So now I just want to add what I can and I need the pump 100% so I was asking how I should do it.

yes I've had many post's but I've also ran into alot of dead ends so Now I'm just doing this and saving/fixing everything lol!

Hope that made sense cause I'm on the iPhone typing quickly,

So this is an N/A ehgine with a turbo put on it, are you still using the turbo or na injectors, if your using na then i would certainly upgrade to atleast turbo injectors, what ecu are you using na or turbo, either one will not run all that well as the engine is under a completely different set of circumstances that it was designed for, i would park the car untill you had money for a tune, use the bigger injectors, pfc and get a z32 as well, the fpr is an option but really an fpr is mainly used to get a little bit more flow from injectors when they start to run out of steam, this shouldnt happen if you have chosen the right size injectors.

It's a fully converted n/a to turbo... Engine, loom, ecu, dif!

Just not brakes, and fuel pump. I want to do the fuel pump tonight that's why I made this thread so I can see what way people think I should do it.

It's a fully converted n/a to turbo... Engine, loom, ecu, dif!

Just not brakes, and fuel pump. I want to do the fuel pump tonight that's why I made this thread so I can see what way people think I should do it.

i see, well i would just do fuel pump then, from what i have heard the factory fuel pump would flow more than the injectors anyway.

i see, well i would just do fuel pump then, from what i have heard the factory fuel pump would flow more than the injectors anyway.

Ok so I'll just add the pump with no fpr, it shouldn't overfuel with standard injectors?

I have seen post about wiring or something briefly, do u need to rewire it or anything else?

If so could u post a link, cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...