Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of some new rims for my R34GTT and like the look of Koya Drift Teks, I'd be goimg for 17 x 8s nothing fancy there, Koya have told me that they weigh 8-9kgs in the 17x8 but didn't seem to sure, I've also come across a couple of posts that were less than enthusiastic about Drift Teks.

So does anyone know what wieght they actualy are ? --And --

---Has anyone an opinion on them based preferably on personal experiance ?

I have to say I'm thinking of getting these because I like the look of them and that they should be reasonably light.

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 155
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can get a set of 17*9" Enkei RPF1s for around $15-1600 from the US. That's bugger all more than driftteks.

aren't 8" a bit narrow for a 34GTT?

driftteks aren't light but if its a road car, who cares? the little bit of weight will make no meaningful difference whatsoever at road speeds on road tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4917568
Share on other sites

Thanks guys does anyone know of a deler that has these in stock on the Gold Coast ? My car is silver/grey and I'd like to sight a wheel I'd be after silver if I go for them and I'm not sure if the colour match would work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4918693
Share on other sites

A mate had them on his S14 for a while. They had a pretty hard life, and he never had issues with them.

They're not that light, but they're not that expensive and they seem strong enough. They also look pretty cool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4919739
Share on other sites

they are heavy and relatively weak. you get what you pay for, although seems cheap and nasty wheels are the flavour of the month here on SAU, even on performance orientated cars. i mean the show cars and "street cars" have always been filled with cheap copy shit, now it seems it's leaking into the performance cars.

but hey, i bet bob jane do killer payment plans so it's all good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4920172
Share on other sites

contact streeter

Mine are actually due in about 1-2 weeks for the RPF1's, I bought when the yen was slightly low so paid over $1600. The yen went up to 79yen per Aussie dollar a week later :laugh:

RPF1's are extremely light.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4920212
Share on other sites

they are heavy and relatively weak. you get what you pay for, although seems cheap and nasty wheels are the flavour of the month here on SAU, even on performance orientated cars. i mean the show cars and "street cars" have always been filled with cheap copy shit, now it seems it's leaking into the performance cars.

but hey, i bet bob jane do killer payment plans so it's all good.

lol i totally dont get it...

i got my SSR professors for 2300 with 95% tread dunlop lemans 702's (that's 4 x $500 tyres)

they were in immac condition, and worked out cheaper than drifteks etc with the same quality rubber

2nd hand jap FTW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4920552
Share on other sites

lol i totally dont get it...

i got my SSR professors for 2300 with 95% tread dunlop lemans 702's (that's 4 x $500 tyres)

they were in immac condition, and worked out cheaper than drifteks etc with the same quality rubber

2nd hand jap FTW

exactly, 2nd hand jap is amazingly cheap, especially through streeter, yet people still insist on buy cheap crap. i think its just laziness these days, no one seems to really give a shit enough about their cars to spend the time to actually search for some quality gear for cheap.

another good example was my new model GT-P's, forged disk, spun rim, cost me $1250 or something delivered to my door in new condition with all volk valve and hub caps, thats less than drift teks i think. and they were high demand size and offset (17x9 +16)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4921424
Share on other sites

II wouldn't trust second hand wheels in a non-streeter "performance" setting. You have no idea what has happened to those wheels in the past, and the cost of failure is quite high with wheels.

I sold off a set of TE37s, one of which I bent heavily. It's impossible to see after the repairs, but it'd be nowhere near as strong as you'd expect. I don't even know if it'd be as strong as a never-bent cast wheel.

Second hand Jap wheels are good for a street car that isn't thrashed too hard but where you can still enjoy the lighter weight, and great for bragging rights, but not something I'd consider for "serious" performance use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4921751
Share on other sites

or as I've found out in the past, out of a set of second hand jap wheels 1 is often buckled which is pretty hard to pick up unless you have a wheel balancing machine handy hence why I'll always buy new wheels be it cast or forged.

Nisskid - continuing on from the Rota thread are we...............?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4921868
Share on other sites

You can get a set of 17*9" Enkei RPF1s for around $15-1600 from the US. That's bugger all more than driftteks.

aren't 8" a bit narrow for a 34GTT?

driftteks aren't light but if its a road car, who cares? the little bit of weight will make no meaningful difference whatsoever at road speeds on road tyres.

:P I don't think so OE is a 17 x 7.5 so 8" is just a 1/2" over OE.

I'm not a fan of over wide wheels on a streeter, which is what my car is, for the 300kws atw guys fine and whatever rocks the boat for everyone else realy , but IMO it dosen't make for a better handling car round town, they're an extra strain on the steering and track gear can be a pita in the wet, don't help with fuel consumption and lets not even get started on tyre costs of fattys.

I've been told that the 17x8 Drift-Teks weigh 8-9kgs which aint to bad but unless someone on here has weighed one and posts I have no way of knowing whether thats right or not till I can find one and sling it on the bathroom scales if they are even 9kgs then I think they'd be about 1 to 2kgs lighter than the 17x7.5 R34GTT OE .

I spose its all relative but 4x 17" x 8" Drift-Teks are $1040.00 fitted,balanced, new wheel nuts, valves etc- using my existing Nexens which have far to much tread to give the ass , much as I'd like to.

Then there's wheel and tyre packages beyond counting from the likes of Tempe @ $1100.00 and moving on of course second handy lightweight mostly Japspec stuff which can be excellent value but from the searches I've done so far min $1500-2000.00 and up and though I guess many are good theres still the element of re roll chance with a second handy as scathing notes in his post here.I have also to find the size/offset I'm after -I'm probably looking in the wrong place.

Then of course we can't put a price on the bragging rights of a $4k set of wheels and then theres the tyres----------------------of course :D .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4921899
Share on other sites

lol i totally dont get it...

i got my SSR professors for 2300 with 95% tread dunlop lemans 702's (that's 4 x $500 tyres)

they were in immac condition, and worked out cheaper than drifteks etc with the same quality rubber

2nd hand jap FTW

lol i got my meisters for 950 with 80% trerad and a slight buckle to one rim ($90 to fix). they aren't the lightest wheel, but better than BT shite

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4921991
Share on other sites

II wouldn't trust second hand wheels in a non-streeter "performance" setting. You have no idea what has happened to those wheels in the past, and the cost of failure is quite high with wheels.

I sold off a set of TE37s, one of which I bent heavily. It's impossible to see after the repairs, but it'd be nowhere near as strong as you'd expect. I don't even know if it'd be as strong as a never-bent cast wheel.

Second hand Jap wheels are good for a street car that isn't thrashed too hard but where you can still enjoy the lighter weight, and great for bragging rights, but not something I'd consider for "serious" performance use.

ur right, brand new quality wheels are best. but id take the very low risk that my 2nd hand wheels have been bent really bad before and repaired, and aren't very strong, then buy brand new cheap wheels and be guaranteed that they aren't very strong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294817-koya-drift-teks/#findComment-4922565
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...