Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, fella's whats the private market value for a 03/04 A/T Prem/coupe, I'm an old dude and new to this site, I imported this car through IMG over 3yrs ago the car was graded 5A, [as new] the car is very rarely driven and is in mint condition, and sits in the garage 7 days a week, I've since retired and now thinking of selling! also the car is fitted with 19'' Advans L/w rims, a factory sunroof with a ''GENUINE'' 25K's this car is unmarked and in concourse condition, hope someone can give me some idear on the ''$'' Thanks Fella's G.T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294943-privatemarket-value-0304-premcoupe/
Share on other sites

$35 - $37k really?

I was thinking more along the lines of $28k tops without the rims....But then again, everything has to be taken into consideration and needs to be seen to be evaluated.

It depends on what state you are you there are some in NSW and VIC for going as low as 23-24 mark but they are non prem with high kms. The colour of the car also help to raise the value a little bit Eg : Like black as there are not many of them around. I would say roughly you should be able to get 28,000-31,000 max if you get around 30,000 you should be cheering. You should look up carsales and do an direct comparison which should help you found a suitable price to list at.

You have two things going against you. 03/04 and A/T, these fetch significantly less than say an 05/06 Manual for example. I hope yours is not Silver too as there is an abundance of silvers to choose from.

At the end of the day km's are pretty irrelevant when talking imports, we would all like to believe our kms are genuine and no one can guarantee that unless you owned the car from factory. Even log books can be made up. As someone mentioned above, chk out carsales as a general guide, some of those cars have been on there for probably close to a year.

Good luck with it anyway, and post up some pics.

$35 - $37k really?

I was thinking more along the lines of $28k tops without the rims....But then again, everything has to be taken into consideration and needs to be seen to be evaluated.

Well i'm from a town in WA where people think my car cost $60k :(

Then you have your nose too close to your arse :)

Fact of the matter is if he'd done his homework he probably would have given it a second thought.

He was undoubtedly influenced by the prices at Fabcar and was expecting they ALL have over inflated Perth values.

You should learn to engage the brain before employing your fingers to type!!!!

Edited by mosoto

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...