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S15 PARTS

s15 camber arms $20

s15 rear parcel shelf $40

s15 genuine veilside rear bar make a offer i need it gone

s15 adm passenger sunvisor $10

s15 washer bottle $10

s15 overflow bottle $10

s15 eyelids paint black with glitter $50

s15 drivers side under dash bit $20

RB26 PARTS

r32 rb26 coilpacks $30 each

rb26 timing belt only 8000kms old genuine nissan $20

rb26 flywheel $30 will also fit rb20 rb25

r32 rb26 dump pipes with 02 sensors $50 pair

rb26 baffle plates (bolt to bottom of engine) $30

rb26 alloy engine brackets $30

R33 GTST PARTS

r33 gtst gearbox crossmember will fit r32 r33 s13 s14 s15 $20

r33 gtst manual brake pedal $20

r33 gtst manual clutch pedal $20

r33 rb25 rear tailshaft $30

r33 radiator brackets $5

rb25 rb20 rb26 starter motor low kms $30

R32 GTST PARTS

r32 gtst manual brake pedal $20

r32 gtst boot seal $30

r32 under dash drivers panel $15

rb20 cam gear cover $20

r32 washer bottle $10

r32 overflow bottle $10

r32 drivers side electric window thingy $15

MISC

drift 3 inch stainless air filter $20

4 inch canon $20

5 inch canon $40

boost tee $10

kenwood 4 channel amp $70

LOCATED ON THE GOLD COAST BUT WILL POST.

BRAD 0421511710

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    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
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