Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

update. ok i've got that damn bolt off now, used a long pole for extension and it finally came off. the shock is still not coming off, i've sort of moved it half way out, not i can't get it out and can't get it back in. is there anything else i need to do?

thanks for the replys guys. didn't finish it in time, so drove my mums car to work :D

only have to put it all back in now, already changed the shock absorber. bit worried about getting it back in as i had enough trouble just trying to take it out! gonna have to try some of the tips suggested. for any beginners out there wanting to change the shocks urself, i advise you to read all the tips!

cheers

ok getting the shock back on the car is even harder than taking it off!

i was afraid of this, was so hard to get off, now its even harder to get it on. i need to compress it like 4cm to get it on.

i don't have a small enough jack to fit underneath there.

blind_elk can u give us a bit more info on ur idea?

thanks.

yep, i've tried pushing the axle down, it helps but still can't get it on!

my poor baby is currently offline until i can fit it back on!

btw, i have spring compressors, but u can't use them to fit the shock back onto the car as there is not enough room there for them. are u suppose to still clamp the springs and keep it on wen u fit the shock back on?

thanks

Jacks are the best way. If you don't have one, get yourself a trolley jack, they are really useful. Use it to put the car up on axle stands, then when it's on the stands, pull the jack out and use it to jack up the shocks. It's really easy once you do a few. Everytime you do them you just get naturally better at it and therefore quicker.

Hey JimX, i've tried to use the jack to jack up the shock, but theres really no room there for the jack. the axle etc are blocking the way to jack the shocks?

When you say trolley jack, u just mean the ones with wheels on it correct?

Sorry for the dumbass questions! This is VERY urgent atm as i've given up on it until someone has some new ideas which i can try. In the meantime i have no car :D

Theres no need to have the spring compressors on when u are putting the shocks back into the car right?

I'll upload some more pics tomorrow.

Bl4cK32, i am thinking! im thinking of who i can call to help me out! lol.

i want the axle to go down, not go up. if it goes up it makes the gap even greater and it will be harder to put on. any other ideas? i really hope this thread is closed soon.

heres a pic of the current situation.

There is more than enough room to jack the shock up if the car is up on axle stands. And by trolley jack, yes I do mean the ones with wheels :) You just need to push the shock up in a kind of next-to position to the stud, and then kind of slide it over. It's pretty easy once you get it into the right position, which can take a bit of fiddling.

You don't need a spring compressor but it might help if you can't do the jack trick. Keep in mind that new shocks are pretty hard to push up on their own anyway so you might need the jack regardless.

Turn the spring compressors upside down and squish the springs while you put the struts in. Then undo them when the strut is in place.

If you can't fit the jack in, it should be easy enough to use brute force to pull the suspension arm down a bit while pushing upwards against the shock and slide it onto the stud.

The more I think about it, the more I think I just used the jack for the rear and just used brute force for the front (no spring compressor for me).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...