Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Got a problem with my car atm that is doing my head in. It's a Series 2 R33 GTS-T with the only mods being a full exhaust.

Basically what is happening is when the car has reached its normal operating temp, (about half way on the temp gauge) when i stop at a set of lights for example it will idle fine for a minute but then the revs will drop from say 7-800 down to around 500 so the car feels like it is going to die, and then pick back up again.

Also when it is doing this if i put my foot on the throttle just slightly the car will almost stall out before coming back more aggressively to try and stay alive.

The car has been lacking its usual power lately and seems to be hesitant at certain stages throughout the rev range.

I have done a full wet and dry compression test, the dry coming up as 155 - 157 across all 6 and the wet as 175-176 across all the cylinders so i know thats all good.

Im considering taking it to someone with a cable to plug in and see if any error codes are coming up.

Would be a great help if anyone could suggest anything.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295480-warm-idle-breakdown/
Share on other sites

BOV leak and not fully closed? Throttle position Sensor up the poo or loose and its moving. There only little screws holding it.

Just a few thoughts. Not sure if it will help you.

BOV leak and not fully closed? Throttle position Sensor up the poo or loose and its moving. There only little screws holding it.

Just a few thoughts. Not sure if it will help you.

Hey mate, yeh i will double check that tonight. Only thing thats doing my head in is that it only happens when its warm.

:D Doobs, that fixed the warm idle problem! car is sooo much smoother especially when i come on and off the throttle.

Still having problems getting full power i think i need to check on my afm though i only cleaned it a few weeks ago... Car seems hesitant to pull hard through the rev range :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...