Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just put on DMS 50mm on my 34gtr. its really nice coilover and i can go corner much better. my setting is

damp:F and R soft to hard 2 turn repound: haven't touch it yet.

only one thing make me unhappy. it make some noise, when the road is flat, the noise like birdcall (zi zi zi zi) not loud i can't notice it if I open the window or music on. but if the road is not flat. it make some knock, all the noise come from rear (I have cut the rear trim for easy adjust rear suspension).

anyone can give some idea??? is that normal??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295582-dms-50mm-coilover-make-some-noise/
Share on other sites

just put on DMS 50mm on my 34gtr. its really nice coilover and i can go corner much better. my setting is

damp:F and R soft to hard 2 turn repound: haven't touch it yet.

only one thing make me unhappy. it make some noise, when the road is flat, the noise like birdcall (zi zi zi zi) not loud i can't notice it if I open the window or music on. but if the road is not flat. it make some knock, all the noise come from rear (I have cut the rear trim for easy adjust rear suspension).

anyone can give some idea??? is that normal??

Were they installed with new strut tops front AND rear? Skyline DMS 50mm need to be installed with new pillow ball strut tops front and rear, you can't re-use the existing tops at either end.

The chirping noise may be a dry shaft seal, prone to making the sort of noise you describe.

DMS used to supply a circular metal "top hat ring" to weld to the OEM pressed metal top spring seat, and a turned out DMS top spring seat to slip over the top hat ring. That way the OEM top seat / and damper shaft bushes can be reused. Pillow ball tops are not required given the design nature of the suspension.

Were they installed with new strut tops front AND rear? Skyline DMS 50mm need to be installed with new pillow ball strut tops front and rear, you can't re-use the existing tops at either end.

i only have new strut top on front:( they didn't told me i need rear one:(

The chirping noise may be a dry shaft seal, prone to making the sort of noise you describe.

DMS used to supply a circular metal "top hat ring" to weld to the OEM pressed metal top spring seat, and a turned out DMS top spring seat to slip over the top hat ring. That way the OEM top seat / and damper shaft bushes can be reused. Pillow ball tops are not required given the design nature of the suspension.

thank you for help

so the strut top is not required for DMS 50mm coilover?

i went to Neal lowe today (DMS dealer QLD). they reckon the valve make some chirping noise. actually the front and rear all make chirping noise, i just coundn't hear the front noise during drive. if i press the 4 corner of my car, i can hear the chirping noise on all 4 corner. so I assume its normal. but what the knock come from? :banana:

Pillow ball tops are not required given the design nature of the suspension.

Aftermarket strut tops are required front and rear for the DMS when fitted to the Skyline! We deal with DMS on a regular basis (ourselves and Neil Lowe are the only QLD dealers), and straight from the mouth of the engineer that makes them, they need aftermarket strut tops!

Things must have changed from just a few years ago then, when DMS supplied our ER34 Tarmac struts AND the above hardware to mate up to the OEM pressed metal tops.

The assembly was done locally by the DMS agent with instructions faxed by DMS, and is a good solution that does NOT require new tops.

We still have the struts although they are no longer in the car, unfortunately the instructions were sent on a thermal printout fax so somewhat faded but still clearly indicating they came from DMS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...