Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanx paulr33.

i've already got a full sound system from my previous car [h/u, splits, rears, amps, subs etc] - so i'm now itching to install it in my new car since it was all just sitting on my lounge room floor for the last 7 months!

now my dilemna is whether or not to just be content with my existing system, or to upgrade and get a full new system... hmmm.... anyone got some spare cash to give me? :)

new install is always good, if you want some advice garys car radio in preston they do wicked install ,my last 2 stereos have been from there, first was a 1200 system in a vl, last one in my 33 was a 1800 install

first = clarion 6" door splits, vnet450 amp for the fronts, 2 x 10" clarions and vnet2100 for the subs. both subs boxed and port holes in the parcel shelf - $1200

second = alpine 6.5" door splits for the fronts, alpine 6" coax speakers in the rear, 2 x 12" subs in the boot boxed, alpine mrmsomething amp for the fronts and rears, alpine mrm something for the subs, alpine cdx9807 head unit and the aux in adapter installed for $1800

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...