Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys hows it goin?

hope I'm in the right section, anyways I bought a r33 skyline s2 recently =D really happy with it ... but unfortunately I have a few issues... anyways last night when I got home after refilling a full tank I noticed my fuel light just appeared, thinking it would go away I left it there but it hasnt, its still on and I've done like 20km today ... next thing is my fuel gauge appears to be a lil erratic I was sittin on the side of the road for bout 10 minutes with the car running and I noticed that I lost a quarter of the fuel lol skylines arnt that thirsty are they ??? just wondering if any of u guys might be able to point me in the right direction, is it my fuel pump or something ? .... oh another thing is that my idle is a bit high too its around the 900 mark ? I read on the idle adjustment section that it should be around 650 am I right? I had ago at adjusting it but I cant see a idle adjustment on my ecu its just a hole where its meant to be I think and the idle screw under the bonnet is pretty much screwed all the way in now ? hmmmm know I'm askin for a bit much but any help would be greatly appreciated =D thanks ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296012-erratic-fuel-issue/
Share on other sites

you really need to adjust the idle with the ecu in base idle mode. the reason being that winding in the idle screw on the plenum without the ecu in idle mode doesn't alter the idle that much as the ecu will try to compensate to keep the idle where it is. it would be well worth getting a hold of a consult cable (either borrow off someone who has one, or buy one from newkleer on the forum). you can put the car into base idle mode without a consult cable, but it is much easier with a consult cable hooked up to a laptop as you can also check for fault codes and make sure things like the AFM and o2 sensor are performing properly.

i would wind the screw out a bit so it is about halfway, then put the car into base idle mode and alter the idle from there. it may also be worth cleaning the AAC/IAC before doing this as well.

as for the fuel usage, the fuel gauge sender could be dodgy and giving you false readings. as for the gauge dropping 1/4 of a tank, when you were on the side of the road was the car on a bit of an angle and not level? often if you park on a slope either pointing up or down the hill, or sideways so 1 side of the car is higher then the fuel gauge will change and then once you get back on level ground it will slowly come back to normal after 30 seconds or so. if you actually lost 1/4 of a tank in 10 mins i would've looked in the mirror for someone syphoning fuel out of your tank, LOL

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for the reply much appreciated mad082 =)

I'm lookin into getting the consult cable, saw one off ebay so hopefully that is on the way now... as for my fuel issue, pretty sure noone has been able to come near enough to the car to syphon my fuel I've been watchin it like a hawk since I got it lol well the gauge readings seem to have come clear now, its reading fine I guess its more the consumption side of things I'm worried bout, but I'll wait for the consult cable to readjust the idle, atm I'm lookin around 250km outta a full tank 100km of it was highway driving and the rest city, I'm not sure if that seems right seeing as I came from a honda and that thing was awesome on fuel... only mods I really have are catback exhaust system and k&n panel filter? oh and the fuel light has just totally died on me now, probably the globe doesnt even light up wen I switch to acc on startup ... but I'II get bak after I've replaced the globe =)

Sounds similar to what a problem i had with mine, but mines a series 1 but shouldn't matter as fuel tank/system is the same.

The actual fuel level reader falls off (hard suspension can do this) the braket its mounted on inside the tank and just floats around at the top and gives off mixed reading's. Foudn that out when i replace my fuel pump for a walbro. Would read full tank when full, then 3/4 tank after about 250k's then all of a sudden drop to 1/4 tank. I'm also pretty sure that the fuel level low sensor (the dash light sensor) is attached to the fuel level sensor, so that is prob causing it to be on despite the full tank as the sensor is probably not picking up that the fuel is there due to the whole thing floating round in the tank

Just an idea ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...