Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I have an R32 GTS4 and i recently blew my little RB20DET sky high =P oops. (shitty oil pumps i say)

I'm wanting to get a new engine back in there, but obviously don't want to waste money on another RB20.

I was thinking of putting in an RB25DET manual out of a Stagea (or convert to manual if needed), but I was thinking was IS the difference between an RB25DET RWD engine and a AWD one? really?

From wot ive gathered it the sump studs in different places, but i could always drill that out and modify so perhaps a RWD RB25DET could b bolted straight in with sump modification into my GTS4, perhaps by modifying my RB20 factory sump or? Has anyone done this or heard about it?

It's obviously cheaper n easier to source a RWD RB25DET than one out of a generally newer Stagea, that are generally autos too...

If anyone could clear this up for me conclusively I will be extremely grateful!!!! =P

RWD RB25DET into GTS4 can it be done? I will do all the work myself with a mate including the engine swap. proficient skills. doable?

Thanks in advance,

Have a sweet one guys!

Really I would say you have 3 options, put another RB20 out of another gts4, put an RB25 out of a stagea AWD or an R26.

Converting to rwd is rather silly as you would be pulling out all the front drive, then replacing the suspension (at least a few parts) with gts-t items. In which case you probably would have been far better off putting another stock RB20 in and selling the car and just buying a gts-t :(.

Wouldn't one of the adapter plates the GTR guys use to put RWD RB30's into there machines work? Probably expensive'ish, but once you are over the initial hump, you can always use cheaper RWD RB25's. Those are like $300 back on Okinawa, but I assume a bit more there. Are stagea RB25's hard to find/expensive?

Cheers guys!

The reason i ask this is because i have the tools n drill bits to easily be able to modify my RB20 AWD sump to an RB25DET RWDmaking it arguably easier to source and cheaper for me than a stagea 25. However some other kids have said u can pickup stagea RB25's cheap now, and I was assuming they'd b at least $2-3k, hence why I was thinking about modifying my sump. But apparently they're going for ~$1200 so i'l most likely go with that obviously! Still, I would like to know for general knowledge if it IS just the sump that's different between the AWD and RWD RB25's, i assume so at the moment but enlighten me if that's not the case =P

Thanks again, have a sweet weekend guys!

Edited by WhatBrake

you couldn't have tapped the holes in to the RWD block anyway because the 4wd blocks have a wider sump flange to fit the wider 4wd sump so you would have had to buy a 4wd adaptor. The 4wd blocks do have both sets of holes though, both 2wd and 4wd.

you couldn't have tapped the holes in to the RWD block anyway because the 4wd blocks have a wider sump flange to fit the wider 4wd sump so you would have had to buy a 4wd adaptor. The 4wd blocks do have both sets of holes though, both 2wd and 4wd.

TRUE. I was wondering this, my mate said he knew the AWD had both sets of holes. But i wasn't sure if they did the same on the RWD's. Yeah so it looks like I'l need an adapter, which is what I was asking. Do u know how much an adapter would set me back? obviously if it starts adding up it may negate it being the cheaper/easier option. Still undecided depending on a few things, but stagea 25 prob b the go. Ive heard the neo can b anal with trans control or something? non-neo stagea RB25DET straight in. N could i bolt my RB20 sump onto that RB25 neo, or would this just be a waste of time?

Cheers guys.

Edited by WhatBrake
just by that c34 engine off ebay. you can't go wrong for $1150

I just despise buying stuff like that off Ebay...Oh I see it's jdm performance. Good call. I'm assuming things - private seller.

Thanks! :P

Edited by WhatBrake

Did you use a 34GTT ecu?

The adapter plates are close to $1000 with a new pickup (I thought about mentioning this in the other thread but the costs aren't worth it unless going 3L.. rwd 25 + adapter > stag 25).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...