Jump to content
SAU Community

Mt Buller - Wrap Up

Al

By Al,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

brat81 Proficient

brat81

Posted
Posted

Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

Look in the NA section, there's heaps of info there.

But to be honest, I don't reckon rebuilding an NA engine is worth it.

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
No i don't think so either and i was going to end up dropping RB25DET in the 33

Yeah, you could always sell the other working parts from the DE engine or even some of the running gears that you might replace with the turbo parts, eg brakes, exhaust etc.

KURAUN Grand Master

KURAUN

Posted
Posted
Well it looks like the cam belt came off, engine overheated then went POP! really i'm lucky i pulled over when i did i could of melted a rod or piston or at least something.

If i went a Rb25det what would i need to change?

enigne, brakes, computer for engineers

and probably just change the whole rear k frame if you can afford it then you got brakes on rear and a better diff - not sure if you need to change the rears for engineers cert though.

best thing buy a halfcut and strip the shit out of it

brat81 Proficient

brat81

Posted
Posted

Just got off the phone with the mechanic $2.2k for a N/A and has done about 62k

Surely that's way over price.

From what he has told me i have no compression in 5 cylinders and the valves are rooted, coils need to be replaced

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Just got off the phone with the mechanic $2.2k for a N/A and has done about 62k

Surely that's way over price.

From what he has told me i have no compression in 5 cylinders and the valves are rooted, coils need to be replaced

could prob find an RB25det package on here for that...

KURAUN Grand Master

KURAUN

Posted
Posted
Jesus Christ this turned into one expensive bloody weekend

thats only if you go rb25det

cause the computer is diff to NA one, will need the turbo brakes...at least at the front and then you have your engine

it could be done cheap if you sourched parts here and there, but a lot of farking around

then you will most likely need a diff to cause the na one wont haddle the power, which is why i suggested the k frame just unbolt the old one bolt up the new one and you will have 5 stud hubs to

For no compression in you car will be the valves, broken or whatever they always come up as 0 compression

doesnt mean that the bottom half of the engine is damaged, could just be the head needs new valves/machining etc

but you wont know until it gets pulled apart

Pigpen Rookie

Pigpen

Posted
Posted
Forgot what the town was called, but we stopped to fill up on snacks

img1453g.jpg

The town is called Mansfield *sigh* Sadly, I live in it. I wish I knew you guys were in town, I would have pretended my VRX was a skyline and snuck into the cruise :P

@ Ashneel, if you come up on the next cruise, you can check out your old TH hahaha :happy: . Still running! Although, it's changed owners now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...