Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Problem With My Rs4s?

A31-RB20

By A31-RB20,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

A31-RB20 Collaborator

A31-RB20

Posted
Posted

Hey all!

Hope someone can help me out here. Ive got a problem with my Stagea after driving for a short while.

I tried searching for a topic that was on here a while ago that was a similar problem to what I have but had no luck.

Ok, quick run down.

I posted a topic a few weeks ago about my intake pipe sucking closed. I noticed my car drove like crap after 15-20mins in the warm weather. Boost would drop down from a constant 0.55 bar down to 0.30 or 0.4 bar max.

The car felt really sluggish and sounded like it was struggling. I presumed it was the intake pipe so I made up the $10 mod and had a 10cm cut of 3" stainless fitted inside the intake pipe.

Well, that wasnt the problem. I since fitted a boost tee, running 0.70 bar, again it drops down to 0.50 bar now after a short while of driving.

From what I can gather, I believe the ECU is retarding the timing as It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to move at all.

Anyone have any ideas on this?

Its starting to piss me off as the car will be running really well then come to a stop take off and its a slug. :D

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks all, Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296562-boost-problem-with-my-rs4s/
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

Do you have access to a consult cable and software, or know how to check error codes yourself. Consult would be better because then you could also check what values the ecu is getting. You say its after about 15min, so I'd be checking the engine temp signal going to the ecu, it's not the same sender as the one on the dash. If this is faulty it could be sending the ecu into safe mode.

32TAXI Experienced

32TAXI

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 'S' had similar probs - surging on boost - no codes - heaps of fuel - black tailgate ;)

Seems the 'S' has very sensitive ecu and 'rich and retards' on any sort of boost increase!

Fitted, tweaked & tuned a R34GTT PowerFC @ 11psi = great midrange + good economy & no black tailgate :huh:

206awhp Too!

Edited by RED513
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If you follow the top hose from the radiator down to the place where it joins the block you will see two sensors - the one with two wires goes to the ecu and the one with one wire goes to the temp guage.

You could try swapping the ecu with someone else but better still if you have a Series 2 neo then get a nistune fitted and get a tune from a good tuner.

A31-RB20 Collaborator

A31-RB20

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok quick update. I cleaned up the two connections on the thermostat housing and did the boost solenoid mod. Boost seems to be staying at a max of 0.70 bar. Took it for a good drive and doesn't seem to be playing up.

I'll drive it to work tomorrow, 41 degrees should bring out any issues!

Thanks again for all the help!

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted (edited)

pretty sure they r all like that from the factory. mines exactly the same. im fairly certain its the ecu turning the boost down after the engine has reached operating temp. i got no idea why its like that. but ive spoken to others that also had the prob with thiers and in every case it went away once an EBC was fitted

edit: it also goes away if u bypass the factory boost soleniod, but the stock turbo doesnt like 14psi and the engine will hit fuel cut anyway. i know mine did!! but i only had it bypassed for 10mins to confirm my theory. DONT RUN UR CAR WITH THE SOLENIOD BYPASSED!!

Edited by Raysboostin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...