Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK well it was only a BB gun but whoever done it used metal balls and I found six on the ground next to my but there are ten shots from the front right guard along the door and all the way to the back right panel. The back right panel also got a good knee by the *unts!!! Where they kneed my car there is no scrathing of the paint but the dent is more than 5cm deep and about 20cm accross.

Each shot left a small dent and chipped off the paint so now I need to find out how much its going to cost me. My car is a two tone with silver on the top and the darker sort of grey colour at the bottom (Im colour deficient so I might be wrong). Now I have been told that it is impossible to get the same colours and just get a panel beater to smoothen out the panels and then get them affected panels resprayed. I have also heard that to blend the paint in properly it has to go across 3 panels so thats pretty much most of the car and I dont want differently shaded panels!!! So is my only choice to respray the whole car???? If so how much would this cost?? With a reputable business???

Ps. No Insurance!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29692-my-car-got-shot-at/
Share on other sites

A decent respray is around $3000. You can probably knock $1000 off this if you do the prep work yourself, though I'm not sure how much of an expert you have to be to do that properly.

Where did this happen? This kind of shit really pisses me off, makes me want to form some sort of vigilante group and find these pricks and bust em up good!

Argh sorry to hear. Where'd this happen?!?!

his location says Strathfield :( I hope it's not in Stratty as I'm there all the time.

I too know how it feels - I recently drove over white paint (black R32) that some morons poured over the road! cost about $300 for detailing and cleaning (twice) to get rid of it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...