Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i want to purchase a nismo front bar and impul sides and have got a decent quote from a g35driver.com forum member:

Nismo $349 w/ mesh

Impuls $329

Shipping to AUS $448

Total Shipped $1126

I can ship you 4-5 nismos for the same price as 1. If you have a few friends down there that wants one too, it would help you offset the cost of shipping considerably.

This is a port to port shipping method. I ship from Port of LA and you pickup at your port in Sydney, Australia. It takes 42 days (port to port)

Please feel free to email me for faster response: [email protected]

__________________

So if anyone is interested we can combine shipping and grab ourselves a bargain. $350 is a great price for a nismo replica front already. And dont forget the aussie dollar is great at the moment.

go to the following link if you want to ask questions about fitment etc.

http://g35driver.com/forums/exterior-fs-vd...es-special.html

oh yeh this for poly not fibreglass aswell :)

this what the nismo front looks like for those that dont know:

http://g35driver.com/forums/exterior/31574...ont-bumper.html

Edited by robbo33

good point.

i might just get them to put the value at under $1000.

tony from riverside infiniti did that for me when i spent over $2000. Didnt have any dramas

even if i just get one more interested person....thats half the shipping cost

Also undervalueing is not going to help you in a group buy as you'll pay duty on total cost, you'll just have to share the duty cost amongst all the buyers so it would be beneficial to work out the ID once you have numbers, If you avoid duty offer a cashback.

Also that shipping quote seems very pricey. I just had a full set of coils, sways & camber arms delivered for $335USD. They came by air, weighed a ton and the box was huge.

Oh and I paid no import duty :D

Edited by mosoto

Oh contrare my freind, the box I rec'd WAS as big as a front bar & skirts. You didn't read my list thoroughly.

I could have been transported in it, and I'm 6' 2" and 115kg.

My statement stands, $448 is pricey for a sea shipment, by air that would be understandable.

Oh contrare my freind, the box I rec'd WAS as big as a front bar & skirts. You didn't read my list thoroughly.

I could have been transported in it, and I'm 6' 2" and 115kg.

My statement stands, $448 is pricey for a sea shipment, by air that would be understandable.

$448 is a fairly decent price.....way cheaper than any other g35driver.com vendors...but yeh it is by sea not air

oh its by SEA?

yeh that is pricey for SEA

i have been quoted for front bar delivered around the same price by air

sorry for not reading properly bit tired last night lol

haha fair call.

i couldnt find any cheaper. Where did you get your quote from??

shipping may be a tad expensive but the front bars are a good price for poly!

not really after the nismo front, but if you can source the JP Vizage front lip + shipping...then I'll be keen.

Currently have a quote for $320 + 200 shipping but not really looking at paying that kind of money just for a front lip.

not really after the nismo front, but if you can source the JP Vizage front lip + shipping...then I'll be keen.

Currently have a quote for $320 + 200 shipping but not really looking at paying that kind of money just for a front lip.

mate thats exactly what i was after the jp visage lip...but for not much more you can get a front bar

not really after the nismo front, but if you can source the JP Vizage front lip + shipping...then I'll be keen.

Currently have a quote for $320 + 200 shipping but not really looking at paying that kind of money just for a front lip.

can they ship 3 lips for that price?? sounds like BLISTC is keen aswell

alright just got a price off a g35driver member for 3 genuine jp visage lips for $325 a lip plus $130ea for shipping.

a little better but probably still not worth it just for a lip. And there is no benifit of buying together as the price is unchanged

what you guys think??

keen. But not till Jan coz I've got an o/seas holiday coming up december and i'll need extra cashflow for that.

yeh expensive time of year right now. well it works out no cheaper if we buy it together anyway.

ive just got to decide if i want the nismo front or jp vizage lip!

yeh expensive time of year right now. well it works out no cheaper if we buy it together anyway.

ive just got to decide if i want the nismo front or jp vizage lip!

can you pm me the link to the dealer in the US??

I got a quote from [email protected] ....shipment was a bit high but I've emailed him to see if it could come down a bit with a group buy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...