Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hiya all,

I'll be picking up a manual AWD box for the stagea this week sometime, together with all the additional bits I need for the swap. Just wondering if anyone has done this kind of swap before, and if they would have any suitable premises for such work. My house is under construction for a house extension, so there is no room for me to do it there ... and I think Tracy has banned me from doing such work at home :D

I'm no stranger to working on cars, but wouldn't mind a hand for ease of work and a speedy job ... plus its always best ofr another set of eyes to be going over the job. Not too keen on paying a workshop to do it ... but not keen on doing it alone ... so aiming for somewhere in the middle!

There's a carton of beer in it for any assistance. I'm keen to start (and finish) the swap not this weekend, but the next. 33 is sold, so the Stag is my daily.

;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297340-help-with-gearbox-swap-in-adelaide/
Share on other sites

perhaps get it touch with luke? He's got access to a hoist I believe and knows his shit.... Dono what the going rate for hoist use is but if I was doing a trans swap id WANT a hoist and perhaps a trans stand/lifter.

Also maybe have a chat to mike about it as he's doing his shortly and seems to have it all sorted.

I presume you have read the "how to" in the DIY section by Trukboy. Its pretty spot on. Being old and decrepit I paid my workshop to do it (about $700 labour $2000 allup). The main problem is that both the auto and the manual are really heavy so if you dont have a hoist and a transmission cradle you will need to make sure you have four good reasonably high stands and a good floor jack. I would say to be safe you want three people to get the box in and out. i got an R33GTR box and was able to retain the original cross member and drive shaft. The only tricky bit I noticed was the comprehensive piping for the clutch including the damper ciruit. I ended up using another clutch pedal setup without the booster as it was a rushed job (my mechanic very kindly did the job on a Sunday night because I was booked for a track day at the new Hampton Downs circuit on the Monday) so with a heavy duty clutch it has quite a heavy pedal - not a problem when driving -only at the lights. Also the handbrake mounting point has to be welded in (I think Trukboy was kidding about the pop rivets) but you don't need the handbrake to go to work!

perhaps get it touch with luke? He's got access to a hoist I believe and knows his shit.... Dono what the going rate for hoist use is but if I was doing a trans swap id WANT a hoist and perhaps a trans stand/lifter.

Also maybe have a chat to mike about it as he's doing his shortly and seems to have it all sorted.

Might have to get in touch with both of them then ... work something out. Done gearbox swaps many times, but I wanna do it once and do it right with the Stag. At least I'm finally sticking to my plans to go manual by the end of the year :P

Hmm, just realised, I still do not have a flywheel. Better shop for one right now!

if you are going to remember anything....remember there is a brass spigot bearing to put into the rear of the crank for a manual!

the box itself is easy

the clutch line is easy if you use a straight braided one

the pedal and boost assembly is the PITA

good luck!

Post up a full list of parts you already have and see if I can help with anything missing etc.

All RB flywheels are the same.

What handbrake?

What clutch pedal set up?

What brake pedal?

Etc

Thought about changing the rear main crank seal will the box is out. Can also go the front gearbox seal I think

I'm getting the gearbox and other conversion bits from Dan who is parting out BITSUS's old 260.

Already got pedal box and clutch lines, master and slave cylinder etc, clutch kit, handbrake organised (most of which coming out of BITSUS's old 260).

Currently sourcing spigot bearing, flywheel, and centre console.

Picking up a majority of the parts tonight.

:)

It is the minor little things that will hold you up

Flywheel bolts, they are different to the auto flex plate

Need a few longer bolts between the gearbox and engine.

If using the Stagea handbrake lever, good as they are different to the skyline ones. Remove the mounting bracket that is welded to the 260RS shell and either reweld or put thru 4 bolts and larger washers thru tailshaft tunnel.

If you are going to use the 206Rs clutch booster you will need to cut a larger hole thru firewall and recess the booster. Not a easy task. I used a r34 GTT master without booster, same as a RS4 S but you will need a different bracket and possibily pedal.

Don't forget you will need to join 2 wires behind the RH head light otherwise the car will not start.

If you do get a center console the g sensor and other relays get in the way of cup holders.

You can fit the handbrake, clutch master and pedals and do the wiring mod prior to go to the shop for the gearbox change. Saves time and keeps car mobile.

Gearbox weight approx 90kgs!! It sucks even with a hoist and gearbox lifter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...