Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Turned up the boost a little today. I had to remove the rear turbo inlet tube to get to both of the wastegate arms. I turned them two full turns from where they were. When I first installed the HKS actuators, they were about .5 bar, now they go to about .65-.70. I didnt log it and I was just out driving and not paying too much attention. In a couple days I will turn the arms another two turns to see if it goes another .2 bar. It is going to take some motivation to turn up the boost more considering all I have to remove to adjust the arms. it Takes about an hour to do it too. Maybe it will take less because today I had to run upstares because I kept forgetting tools. I can feel it gets too rich up top or not enough timing. I got a map ready to use that has a more linear fuel curve and some expanded timing maps for the more boost I may drop in later. I really need someway to log knock, may look into the Radio Shack method.

Yesterday I drop a timing map that I thought might take care of some of the Low Gear High Load pinging that I have been experiencing. I knew that it has been caused by the higher compression so I know that base timing would be less as higher comp. motors usually have less base timing. After looking at other timing maps, like the RB25, I decided to trim 5 degrees of the entire lower section of the ignition maps. So far it has made a vast improvement to intitial take off and low load to medium load transitions. I think I may some less timing in the 2000rpm areas though, they were only trimmed about 3 degrees. So now when the car is timed, it will be to 15 degrees with a timing light, not the stock 20. All this and I didnt have to touch the cam angle sensor.

This picture shows both timing Maps, Green is stock RB26 and red is my concoction. After I am done, there should be a little more red in the High Load High RPM area. The red there now is the HKS bootleg tune I got from an HKS tuned ECU that I got a while ago.

pingchanges.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I aquired a front swaybar yesterday from an R32 GTR and ordered a rear GTR bar from Upgarage. I did some research and figured I am losing some handling ability because I am running the GTS25T bar in the back. I figure that the swaybar setup of the 2wd would need to be way different than the AWD setup. The current bars are 22mm up front and 18mm in the rear. The GTR setup is a 24mm bar upfront and 25mm in the rear. I guess the AWD needs a stiffer rear to combat the understeer. The thing is I think I need to drop the subframe a little to change the front one.

Awesome car! This might sound silly are you running 450hp at wheels or at the engine?

Not really running the power yet. It is only at .65bar now. I did feel the clutch slip with this boost level, so no turning up the boost will have to wait till I upgrade the clutch. My goals are really not at the wheels though. I am really shooting for 50% more power, not necesarily a power number. I am going for feel and tuning to see what I can get. Later when the clutch is good, I am going to play around with the timing map up top to see what numbers are there. I just need access to some knock monitoring equipment. End state will be 1 bar with tune. Then I will see how much the MAFs are flowing and see how close to maxed out.

Not really running the power yet. It is only at .65bar now. I did feel the clutch slip with this boost level, so no turning up the boost will have to wait till I upgrade the clutch. My goals are really not at the wheels though. I am really shooting for 50% more power, not necesarily a power number. I am going for feel and tuning to see what I can get. Later when the clutch is good, I am going to play around with the timing map up top to see what numbers are there. I just need access to some knock monitoring equipment. End state will be 1 bar with tune. Then I will see how much the MAFs are flowing and see how close to maxed out.

Thats fair enough. I understand what you trying to do. My 32 GTR runs 1bar of boost it make 343.8rwhp with a remap ECU, and for clutch I'm using ORC twin plate rated for 700ps. I know a Apexi power FC was knock monitoring thing on there.

My 32 GTR runs 1bar of boost it make 343.8rwhp with a remap ECU,

I hope to make more as I am not running the stock turbos.

The clutch I am looking it is the Nismo GMaxII. I know someone that installed one on their R34 GTR and they said it feels and drives like a stock clutch. I am sold on that idea.

I hope to make more as I am not running the stock turbos.

The clutch I am looking it is the Nismo GMaxII. I know someone that installed one on their R34 GTR and they said it feels and drives like a stock clutch. I am sold on that idea.

That fair enough. What turbos are you running?

very neat build. i like the attention to detail that your going to :D. you should have left the rb25 rocker cover, valley cover and cam gear cover on. then noone would suspect there was a 26 in there at all :P

looking good

very neat build. i like the attention to detail that your going to :D . you should have left the rb25 rocker cover, valley cover and cam gear cover on. then noone would suspect there was a 26 in there at all :P

looking good

Funny thing is when I had the other cam covers on, guys would ask me how hard it was to twin turbo and ITB the RB25. I told them that it was easier than putting 25 cam covers on a 26.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...

Winston, im also modding my gt-four, but im just starting. Any ideas on which coilovers to get? i was looking at BC racing v1's which are pretty cheap, $1.2k for front and back. Also, do you know if the shocks are fork type or eyelet type?

Trying to decide what to do about suspension setups.

Right now I am running Billsteins and Nismo springs designed for the R33 GTR, but that was just to get me by. Next thing will be R34 GTR coilovers of some sort, but I dont know what. Obviously will be used from Upgarage but I dont know what. And then I am think about poly bushings, but I dont know where to get AWD stuff for the fron. I am also wanting to get wider wheels for the front as my wheels are staggered (yuck for AWD). After all this I need a way to adjust camber. I just need a setup for what little touge we have on our tiny island.

I am thinking Tein flex with 275 rubber all around. What camber settings?

Winston, im also modding my gt-four, but im just starting. Any ideas on which coilovers to get? i was looking at BC racing v1's which are pretty cheap, $1.2k for front and back. Also, do you know if the shocks are fork type or eyelet type?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
×
×
  • Create New...