Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im sorry but you have no idea what your talking about, it's nothing to do with buying a lemon... there are things that break in gtr's because they are performance cars that get driven hard

valve guides crack and drop into bores - engine rebuild

oil pumps fail and crack - engine rebuild

oil problems at high rpm cause spun bearings - engine rebuild

transfer cases die - box out job

clutches die after a few launches - box out job

front diffs sh1t themselves - motor out job

those are only a few of the many common problems that come with GTR's and not one of them would be picked up during a inspection to see if the car is a lemon

any RB26 around 100,000kms or over is a timebomb waiting to happen

I'd consider all those things you've listed as a lemon. Even though mine doesnt come with logs but it just handles and drives so well. Obviously buying something without log will mean there's no assurance to the actual mileage but hey, you can always do a major service. Stuff like engine or transmission being f**ked, I believe any experience mechanics would have picked them up. I suppose its gotta do with their senses after all these years of work.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I agree its easy and there are but when you really start looking, you will find the price tells a lot about the car and also the during of ownership. Seen 3 other 33gtrs after I saw the current one I have and all 3 were around the price range of 25k. All 3 owner owned them for around a yr. And they all have weird sound in them with cheapo mods. These shows a lot about the owner and probably how the car has been treated. I'm not saying anything cheap is bad but chances of scoring 1 thats bad is pretty high.

Only recently I know of someone who bought a 33gtr dirt cheap for 17k, drove for around 6month and wanna sell it for 19k. Seen and heard how the car runs, all I can say is anyone with a brain wouldnt touch it unless you're rebuilding the shit for track (I know some people are desperate to sell thats why their price are low but I'm just saying in general).

Yeah mate, i can agree with that. But you dont know how hard the cars have been thrashed back in japan, or here in Australia. It just might have 150,000kms but who knows how long it is until something in the oil pump f**ks up.

This is true, and I'm not saying everything lasts forever. Hell nothing does in this world. I'm just saying, when it comes to and original car, and a less original ie- a 96 GTR with "60,000kms" but everything worn as f**k and has Japanese 100km sevice sticker on it. Then I would be more inclined to buy the original one as the "60,000km" one might'aswell have 360,000km on it. And thats when you worry like all f**k about original oil pumps.

True story, I have a mate who bought his Pulsar new in 1995, still has it to this day. Just ticked over 500,000km... And all hes had to do is a dizzy and a head gasket. Nissan build good cars, look after them, they'll look after you. Gtst or GTR doesn't matter :)

It's very easy to buy a lemon gtr though.

Maybe not atm, because there aren't many on the market. But lets say over east as well.

And your spot on. Theres a reason why you can buy a 33 GTR for 17k. And the exact same for 27k.

Goodluck to the OP. Do yourself a favour drive both a GTST and a GTR. You'll see what people pay more for.

I agree its easy and there are but when you really start looking, you will find the price tells a lot about the car and also the during of ownership. Seen 3 other 33gtrs after I saw the current one I have and all 3 were around the price range of 25k. All 3 owner owned them for around a yr. And they all have weird sound in them with cheapo mods. These shows a lot about the owner and probably how the car has been treated. I'm not saying anything cheap is bad but chances of scoring 1 thats bad is pretty high.

Only recently I know of someone who bought a 33gtr dirt cheap for 17k, drove for around 6month and wanna sell it for 19k. Seen and heard how the car runs, all I can say is anyone with a brain wouldnt touch it unless you're rebuilding the shit for track (I know some people are desperate to sell thats why their price are low but I'm just saying in general).

Can you PM said link to said GTR Brandon :) Cheers!

And yeah your'e spot on. You only buy a GTR from a GTR fanatic, or someone who has a passion for the car. Don't ever buy a GTR from someone who goes.

Buyer - When was its last service?

Seller - Um I dunno cuz probz about 7000kms ago bro!

Buyer - What oil did you put in it, did you do plugs?

Seller - Coorrrrr shit brew I duno hey! Just got a $115 lube mobile service.

Buyer - Um okay. Goodbye *walk away!!!!*

Buy a 33 GTST and with the money you save spend it on ~7 days of non-stop hookers & blow. :)

Just keep in mind mate, one day you'll run out of that money, which means no more hookers and blow and then you'll be sad with a flaccid one.

Buy a gtr, and with every drive you'll be hard... hard to catch I mean.. :laugh:

Yeah man you're absolutely right! :P

All about what we want out of the car from purchase.

If you want to make a high hp machine/amazing driving experience. buy a gtr. If you want a possibly daily that you can bolt on decent amounts of power/peelouts, buy a gtst/gtt.

True story, I have a mate who bought his Pulsar new in 1995, still has it to this day. Just ticked over 500,000km... And all hes had to do is a dizzy and a head gasket. Nissan build good cars, look after them, they'll look after you. Gtst or GTR doesn't matter :)

He drove 500,000km in 14 years? Thats almost 36000km per year! I struggle to do 10000km per year lol.

Very much agree with you though, Nissan build incredible cars, i wouldn't own any other make. My sister has owned two Pulsars, first one was a 1990 hatch which was very good, only problem it had was with the immobilizer but i just wired in a bypass and all she had to do was remember to disconnect it after every drive. Now she owns a 1999 Pulsar, no problems at all, its a great car.

Same goes for old Datsuns as well, me and my mates own a 120Y coupe, we thrashed the absolute shit out of it so that we could try to fix it. Changing gears without the clutch, redlining and valve bouncing everytime. Even wedged it up against a tree with the accelerator held down, it did a skid for 6 minutes before we got bored and stopped it lol. Finally managed to break it by taking the radiator cap off and driving it hard, didn't like that. Fixing it was a lot of fun :D

Ok if a GTT or GTST is a better daily then a GTR... that makes my GT a better daily than a GTST and GTT right :P Win

10,000km per year are you serious!!! >_< My mum/dad puts 40,000km on his falcon yearly. And does over 50,000km a year in his courier van?

You must just take it to sunday church..

Personally, IMO GTR or nothing. Mainly coz I've owned both. You still pay the same for rego, tires, fuel and insurance (depending on your history etc etc)

If your gonna get ass raped in the above running costs. Mosewell do it in a car what will love you that as much as you love it!

Orrr... buy a shitter and then have a GTR for a weekend car. Only in a perfect world though!

One thing that no one has mentioned though, is that if its your daily, and you plan to modify just have a backup plan.. As everyone knows, when you start playing with older cars, it occasionally throws a tantrem and can leave you stuck without your wheels for a few days... Or weeks. Depending on how much of a spak it has. ie oil pickup problem. Rebuild cha ching.

Can you PM said link to said GTR Brandon >_< Cheers!

And yeah your'e spot on. You only buy a GTR from a GTR fanatic, or someone who has a passion for the car. Don't ever buy a GTR from someone who goes.

Buyer - When was its last service?

Seller - Um I dunno cuz probz about 7000kms ago bro!

Buyer - What oil did you put in it, did you do plugs?

Seller - Coorrrrr shit brew I duno hey! Just got a $115 lube mobile service.

Buyer - Um okay. Goodbye *walk away!!!!*

i was checking out a GTR a while back and the conversation was something like

me - "yea so tell me a bit about it"

seller - '...well... its got 18" chrome rims'

i knew then and there i wasn't buying that one haha

10,000km per year are you serious!!! >_< My mum/dad puts 40,000km on his falcon yearly. And does over 50,000km a year in his courier van?

You must just take it to sunday church..

Personally, IMO GTR or nothing. Mainly coz I've owned both. You still pay the same for rego, tires, fuel and insurance (depending on your history etc etc)

If your gonna get ass raped in the above running costs. Mosewell do it in a car what will love you that as much as you love it!

Orrr... buy a shitter and then have a GTR for a weekend car. Only in a perfect world though!

One thing that no one has mentioned though, is that if its your daily, and you plan to modify just have a backup plan.. As everyone knows, when you start playing with older cars, it occasionally throws a tantrem and can leave you stuck without your wheels for a few days... Or weeks. Depending on how much of a spak it has. ie oil pickup problem. Rebuild cha ching.

Erm. I probably go around 10-15k per yr maybe? I got the car in feb and only changed the oil twice so I've roughly travelled 6k or 7k since then. But I dont drive to work. Its my only car so you can call it daily? or maybe just weekend? hahaha

I don't know what you guys do for work. I clock up 4-500kms a week in the hilux and about 2-300kms in the GTR on the weekends.

You buy a car to drive it.

You don't buy it to look at in your garage and whack off. (well maybe some people do I dunno.. >_< )

:blink:

Hahaha... yea Sunday service and I take bus to work. Thats pretty much why I dont do much. Every alternate week we might go to the coast or do a bit of driving but theres always housework and shit garden to do for sat.

Thanks for the almost intricate details on your personal life!

:D

:D:laugh:

hehe

Yeah i feel bad racking up kms on my engine and driving my car everyday. It can work out to be pretty expensive especially with me taking like 5 short trips a day. 5~

Lol my car is my daily, i drive it pretty much everyday. Including to Joondalup and back for uni some days which is a 108km round trip. I still struggle to drive that many kms lol, i have driven 7000kms since i bought the car 9 months ago

I do about 600 a week easy, and I just took a GTR for a test drive today... All I can say is I want it, and want it now. Just hope the loan dont bugger me around, or I'll go hulk on the finance fullas ass.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...