Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pull out your spark plugs again and inspect them. that will give you an indication of whether it is a fuel issue. if they are black then it isn't a fuel issue but a spark issue. if they are a light colour then it is a fuel issue. if possible get someone to drive behind you and make it play up. if they see unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust when it missfires then you know it's a spark issue.

legend. will do

how much boost you running?

i have a similar issue and i thought its just the stock ECU fuel cut or R&R, if i reset the ECU it will be fine for a while....

how long was a while.. what did the final problem turn out to be?

he is running stock boost. he said it in an earlier post.

this brother from another mother.. been with the problem since the start of this pain the rear end hole!

its been raining in melbourne. when the spark plugs were changed over, i didnt replace the cover so i dont want to do too much work and, i dont think anyone'll be able to see whats coming out of my exhaust.

generally if the fuel pump is playing up it will usually only be in the high end where it starts to lean out. generally it should be fine at lower rpm as the fuel being used is very low so the pump should be able to flow well enough.

generally if the fuel pump is playing up it will usually only be in the high end where it starts to lean out. generally it should be fine at lower rpm as the fuel being used is very low so the pump should be able to flow well enough.

is it worth replacing? exactly as u say it does..

wouldn't hurt to replace it to be on the safe side, however if it isn't the issue then you have wasted a few hundred dollars. you would be best off putting the car on a dyno to get the AFR's checked to see if it is leaning out. that way if the AFR's are fine you can put the money towards finding out exactly what is the cause.

First time Ive had a drama with the car is today :laugh:.

Turns out mines doing same thing, But it does it at anything about 0+. shuders, hesitates, splutters, as if a cooler pipe has gone off :S

all new Gear, intake, gaskets, splitfires, tomei z32, about 80 dyno runs, never had an issue. today started it, driving to work.. this happening >.<...

wat the f!,.. PFC map?

I have no idea bro, sorry. Man, I'm sending the car to a dude in Melbourne that comes highly recommended. Supposed to go today but had a wedding I sorta forgot I had to go to. I'll go to him early on Monday. If he tells me the cars problem, I'll pass that on to you, or if you're in Melb. tell me and I'll give u his details.

the dude fixed it in 15 seconds. f'ing very good guy.

#1, the turbo we changed was boosting (or trying to at least) at 22psi,

#2, the afm was dodge so i replaced with the another standard one,

#3, the loom that sat in the afm was pretty shockingly crusty, so we changed that and he crimped it into place,

#4, the bov i had on the car was pushing a lot of what was in the pipes out, so the sensors got crappy readings and made it try and cut out,

just little bits and pieces. the dude did a massively good job, anybody in melb who wants serious work done to their car should go there.

i hope some of these steps help u in ur problem cuz.

good luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...