Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello SAU,

My R33 GTS25T has been out of action for 2 or so months now.

I will start from the beginning, One day I was idleing my skyline at my house and was sitting infront of it.

Randomly I heard a 'tick' noise and the engine stopped, since then It hasn't started.

It cranks over but it won't start it, The spark plugs are firing and had them replaced recently after the car died.

Replaced the CAS and Cleaned my AFM.

The ECU has the error code of 13 which is apparently the Coolant Temp Sensor.

Earlier before the car broke down I had to bypass the coolant pipes that goes to the heater because it was leaking into the passanger side.

I dunno what to do, I am stuck driving my Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder that stalls all the time and not to mention its FWD.

Thanks SAU hope to hear from you soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/
Share on other sites

was the 'tick' like the sound of flicking a switch? it may have been a relay or fuse blowing. i'd go through the fuse box and check them all.

Hey thanks for the reply, It came from the front of the engine I have checked all the fuses under the dash.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4956895
Share on other sites

there is a fuse box in the engine bay (drivers side near the strut tower) that has all the relays, etc in it. my guess is that one of them is gone. if you do find one blown, then don't just buy one to replace it, but buy one as a spare, because there is a small chance it will do it again if there is a short in the system, in which case you would need to find the short before installing the spare one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4956969
Share on other sites

there is a fuse box in the engine bay (drivers side near the strut tower) that has all the relays, etc in it. my guess is that one of them is gone. if you do find one blown, then don't just buy one to replace it, but buy one as a spare, because there is a small chance it will do it again if there is a short in the system, in which case you would need to find the short before installing the spare one.

Thanks for the reply, Will have a look when I get home from work and will post back here on the progress.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4957373
Share on other sites

did you recently wash the engine? water can eventually stuff the sensor I reckon...

if the error is for the coolant temp sensor try replacing the sensor, I had an intermittent issue with coolant temp sensor, where eventually the car would not start replaced the sensor and everything was fine, sensor cost $20 from Phat lavish on here who sometimes (actually quite alot) strips cars down for part selling...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4957458
Share on other sites

did you recently wash the engine? water can eventually stuff the sensor I reckon...

if the error is for the coolant temp sensor try replacing the sensor, I had an intermittent issue with coolant temp sensor, where eventually the car would not start replaced the sensor and everything was fine, sensor cost $20 from Phat lavish on here who sometimes (actually quite alot) strips cars down for part selling...

Yes I did wash the engine. Apparently I cannot message PhatLavish until I have posted 10 times, I am willing to buy a new sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4957530
Share on other sites

have a check around at some wreckers any one with a shot rb25 or wrecked 33 will have one...

you know where it is? from memory its just above the top radiator pipe where it connects to engine... electrical plug goes straight down into it, its sitting right up on top, the easiest sensor to get to. be sure when replacing it you top up the coolant when you screw it back in to avoid getting an air bubbble in your cooling system...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4957868
Share on other sites

have a check around at some wreckers any one with a shot rb25 or wrecked 33 will have one...

I live in geraldton, Nowhere in town that has wreaked Skylines, After this post though I can message that guy the get a new sensor (Because I now have 10 posts).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4959171
Share on other sites

keep in mind that you can post online on the auto wreckers part request sites (eg. www.carsparefinder.com.au)

Wreckers are quite happy to post parts to you...

I put a request in for a D40 tailgate and got a reply from three wreckers from all over the country the very next day...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4960760
Share on other sites

How long did the car run for after you washed the engine? From what I remember you need to reset the ECU to show up all error codes. When the car is running for a bit these error codes get cleared one by one. You will keep getting the temp sensor error code because the car hasn't warmed up so that it can be cleared. The ECU codes are only a rough idea on what is wrong.

The ECU maybe outputing another code after the temp sensor one.

Also check you didn't damage any cables when you bypassed the cooling pipes and check not coolant reached the ECU in the kick panel area.

One more question, how long was the car running ok for before it wouldn't start anymore?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4965701
Share on other sites

after you washed the engine did you dry any water out of the coilpack valley? if not then i'd say you've fried the coils. they will arc out something major when there is water in there (know from experience) and i would assume that if you don't dry it out the coils would just keep arcing out and end up creating weak spots where they will continue to arc out even when dry.

also the car should run even without the coolant sensor plugged in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4967311
Share on other sites

Ok this morning I started my car, but it would only sit at 500 revs and drop and go back up, did that for a minute, I applied accellerator and it cut out and wouldn't start? Does this info help in diagnosing the problem, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-4982640
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Ok this morning I started my car, but it would only sit at 500 revs and drop and go back up, did that for a minute, I applied accellerator and it cut out and wouldn't start? Does this info help in diagnosing the problem, thanks.

Bump +1

It is still having problems.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297786-broken-r33/#findComment-5010887
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...