Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: 1993 Nissan R32 gts-t Skyline read the paragraph in extra info

CAR IS FULLY ROADWORTHY (just have to adjust the coilovers up about 30mm) also reverse lights arent working but thats because there not connected to gearbox (just ask if u call) ill explain

Location: QLD: Brisbane

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling:

Asking Price: 10,000 NEG ***PRICE DROP TO $8500***

URGENT SALE!

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: Mobile:(Ben) 0432 565 225 call me anytime!

Extra Information:

Engine: rb20det

Exhaust: 3 inch Turbo Back Stainless With Xforce Cannon

Suspension: Brand new Ksport Drift spec Coilovers

Wheels: WORK 17 by 8.5 front and 17 by 9.5 rear with Pirelli dragons on back and brand new Kuhmo KU36 semi slicks on the front

Modifications:

ENGINE & DRIVELINE:

Garret T3/T4 turbo (not sure on exact model but says t3/t4 ar50 on it)

600 by 300 by 90 Frontmount Intercooler

Turbo smart B.O.V (plumbed back for roadworthy)

Oil catch can (also plumbed back for roadworthy)

R32 GTR rear Diff

Exeedy Heavy Duty Clutch (only 6 months old)

K&N Pod

Front Strut Brace

INSIDE: * The car is modplated as a 2 seater but i have all the back seats and seatbelts etc if they need to be put back in*

Nardi Wheel

Apexi AVC-R Electronic boost controller

Apexi Turbo Timer

everything Stripped out like back seats all rear trims ect,

PAINT AND KIT:

Custom Purpley Grey paint (looks very nice)

VERTEX Body Kit

Stereo Audio / Visual:

took it out as it was going to be a drift car.

Estimated Power:

there is a dyno sheet that came with the car that is 180rwkw.

The reason that im selling the car is because i cant afford it, i bought it about 3 moths ago and had plans to turn it into a drift car, so i put brand new coilovers and got it all roadworthy and registered (still 4 months rego) and i also partly stripped the rear of the interior (but i have it all here and its in ok condition) i cant even drive the car on the street as i am on the new p plate laws so i've driven it twice around archerfield and being a second year apprentice cant afford to keep it up, the car is in pretty good condition, theres a crack up the rear right hand side of the rear bodykit which is stitched up with cable ties and a few scratches on the back kit, and also the front left quater pannel is dented, the only thing mechanically bad is the syncro in second gear is not very healthy and crunches at high rpm into gear, apart from that if you are a serious buyer just call me or come round and im more than happy to run you over it or answer any questions! PRICE IS NEG... SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY not just random offers *(PM ALL OFFERS)*

post-68676-1259373181_thumb.jpg

post-68676-1259373226_thumb.jpg

post-68676-1259373320_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298081-1993-r32-gtst-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...