Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a few bits and pieces lying around thought i might see if there use full to someone. See the pictures for what i have,i might have few other bits and pieces lying around too so feel free to ask.

BOV - $35

Timing belt idler and tensioner genuine from nissan only did 5000ks $40 for the pair

5 gtr rods and pistons $80

Stock R33 radiator removed due to upgrade to alloy $60

Interior Stuff - Rear Seat series 1.5 $20

A- pillar trims $20 pair

B/C PIllar trims $20 pair

Rear trim panels series 1.5 $30 pair

Injector rail with Reg - $30

RB25 stock injectors (not in picture) - $50

R34 OP6 Turbo has chipped exhaust Wheel, pulled it apart to inspect for further damage all ok except the exhaust wheel(see pic), all the pieces are there - $100

Series 1 Coil pack loom no broken plugs - $30

RB25 Sump - $25

Rb26 Intake cam gear $20

Everything else you see in the pictures is $10 a piece

Parts are in Brisbane

Scott 0403 530 367

Thankyou

Head Drain Pipe Sold

Front top engine cover Sold

Rb25 intake cam gear Sold

post-29410-1259566348_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566444_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566503_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566555_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566602_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566650_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566709_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566775_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566810_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1259566850_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys, Just want some advice on r34 GTT ac system. Since I’ve owned it, the ac compressor, doesn’t matter the set temperature or ambient temperature, runs for around 10 seconds then disengages the clutch, then re-engages everywhere 30 seconds or so and keeps repeating this.    is this normal?   I had it recharged today as it was slightly low and thought it would fix it but still does it. it cools fine in summer even prior to the recharge, except for the usual warmup when stopped or in traffic (still yet to wire overheat fan to on with ac)   any thoughts would be much appreciated 
    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
×
×
  • Create New...