Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good day to all.

I am a fan of Skylines but for now, this RB25DET(japan import) conversion on my 78 Mustang is the closest I can get to a Skyline so technically I don't own one.

I just find information in the forums very helpful and will probably use advices from those of you who really own Skylines.

Hope I am welcome here.

Cheers!

Ryan

Edited by count_rye
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298575-hi-from-philippines/
Share on other sites

I smell a hint of fast and furious: toko drift :D

Welcome aboard mate :D

If your mustang is still on the building process please do share - It would be very different.

We have a build up section ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...-Buil-f190.html

Wow, nice welcome from you guys, thanks a lot.

For the photos, I will post some once my friend has the time to take some because presently, I am here in Dubai and the car is in the Philippines.

Initially, RB20DE was mounted some three weeks ago but after reading through the pages of SAU, I decided to upgrade a bit to an RB25DET since they both have got inline six, I thought why not add half a liter and a boost? Well, RB26/30 would be much for me on the roads of my country where traffic in the Metro usually is heavy. Also, Mustang and Skylines are very rare in the Philippines so I am hoping for a good mix here. Will update you guys with photos, I didn't think of the Fast and Furious thing until now.

Cheers!

I need some help here.

Could you please suggest where to put the intercooler for my car?

Is there anything I can do to hide(not so obvious) it if I decide to have a FMIC?

Can I make it top-mounted? what kind of intercooler do i need?

Cheers!

why do you need to hide it?

top mounts are ok, but very prone to heatsoak being on top of a hot engine and im not sure if theres room on top of an rb25 for one. if you wanna hide it, chuck a mesh into the frontbar in front of the cooler, and paint the cooler and pipes black. wont be noticed, unless actually looked for

I want to hide it simply because I would prefer a sleeper look for my little Pony and the front bumper is so slim but if top mounts are prone to heat soak, then I'll probably settle with a front mount and I'll incline it a bit, would that be fine for the heat transfer?

@Paul: Presently here in Dubai but the car is in Cavite(remotely monitored,hehe), I live in Makati.

yeah, will go for the usual FMIC and paint with flat black as suggested.

I have a house is in Malagasang Cavite but I live in Makati where my local office is located.

here are some dirty photos inside a very dirty garage in the ghettoSL373260_640x480.jpg

SL373267_640x480.jpg

SL373259_640x480.jpg

the RB20 is not even wired yet but being pulled out in preparation for the coming RB25det engine.

kumusta pare

I have family in manila/baguio

born in manila but grew up in australia

good luck with your project (looks like the rb25 might be a tight fit in that engine bay but I can only go on the angle of your pictures)

welcome :)

Hi Yo-Yo.

Yeah the RB20 is a little too tight in the engine bay but my pal said it fits just right considering an upgrade with the radiator and an additional FMIC.

I'm now going to the Philippines for a vacation and hoping to see the RB25 get fitted. Hope I can take some photos before I leave...back here again. I just want the engine to start and we'll start the modifications from there.

Good to have kababayans here in SAU.....kahit saan talagang sulok ng mundo, merong pinoy, mate.

cheers

Good to have kababayans here in SAU.....kahit saan talagang sulok ng mundo, merong pinoy, mate.

cheers

salamat ka :)

forgive me my tagalog is very basic...

I have an aunty that lives in anchorage alaska so it's very true hehe :mage:

I visited the site last week but no progress on the engine yet. A lot of body works and giving more strength to the braces, renewal of bushings and mounting/foundations. My goal is to have the imported engine start and then we will proceed with some basic modifications e.g. intake, exhaust and a good tuning.

This will be a very slow-moving project but thanks for the moral support.

  • 2 months later...

Just an update on my project.

Since I got an R33 halfcut, everything mechanical about the Mustang will go but the body.

My mechanic friend told me that the conversion will really be difficult since the front and rear suspension of the halfcut will be adopted to replace the old design, which requires building of new mountings and additional braces for chassis support. I eased his problem by telling him I will not put the rear seats of the car so he could do whatever it takes to mount the (new rear) suspension system.

As for the engine, it's been used quite really well but no plans of overhauling it since I want the engine to be ready first before planning anything else.

In short, this conversion is really a pain in the a$$ but I guess it will be more satisfying to ride in it when it's ready.

We don't have many Mustangs and Skylines in the Philippines so I think this project makes it unique, at least for me.

This was a dream to me even before FnF:Tokyo Drift was shown. Anyway, different mustang and different engine though.

Will take photos when something essential is done.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...