Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 425
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think i saw your car today sly33 ... did you park ur car in a car park in rundle street today?? i think i saw u come out ... i think thats one of the cleanest ones i've seen ... top paint job  ;)  .. then i saw this kinda lemon lime sorta colour r33 with a weird kinda kit... i couldn't tell what it was ... reminded me of those old fords ... but it had a nice lemon lime kinda paint jobs  :) .. this was all after the cruise today were i spotted everyone LOL  :)

hi hip! yeah i parked in the u park just down from bourngiornos. Ive since thrown in the new bilsteins and even lower kings. It looks tuffer now!

i saw that 33 in the new ford "citric acid" fluro yellow color. It has Vic plates on it, and the owner chose to give me the stinkeye one saturday night while cruising, maybe coz he didnt have the best skyline :) He was cruising with another 33, a burgandy one with a carbon bonnet with Vic plates too, which also gave me the stinkeye! haha

my cars currently getting tuned with the new dump and z32 AFM, if you want a closer look hip we can meet sometime next week.

LOL ...  

sly  .. would love to see it next time on a cruise or something  :P ... best lookin 33 i've seen ... well arguably the best .. debateable between u and whatisname and steve  LOL  :D

Hip,

Funny you should mention Steve, Al (SLY33) & me, 'cause I've just recently had a closer look at Steve's beast, & I drove past Al's shiny new orange machine at Mile End Autobarn CP only the other day :)

I'd give 1st place to Al hands down. Very impressive looking car with a stand out paint job, wheels, & list of performance mods (growing each day it seems :D )!

2nd to Steve. Well over 300rwkw, nice bodykit & interior, plus the engine bay looks awesome!

I'll take 3rd for now :D

Thanks for the kind words Hiep and Mat, I was actually hoping to get a closer look at your engine bay there Mat, to get some tidy up tips for mine:D I still have a long way to go I think to win any awards. Grepins engine bay is looking very nice these days too (tidier than mine, but he needs to give it a dust), but I think it will take along time before anyone takes the award from Mat if the photos are anything to go by.

I dont plan on running the car, not really interested, maybe one day to see what it does, but for now I am still not happy with it, just a couple of things that need sorting, like FMIC to plenum pipe, then some decent rubber with grip, stronger wastegate spring, etc etc... it never ends:)

MattR, what is happening with you? When are you getting a new 'line?

Steve, likewise mate, thanks for the kind words ;) Yes Greg's engine bay is looking very impressive after his latest round of mods. Not to mention the performance!

You'll have to drop round sometime mate, we can continue our brief chat from the other night. Sorry I didn't get a chance to drop in again :) Didn't think you'd like me coming over again @ 1am!

You've got to run the car at AIR Steve. It doesn't have to be the 4 6 & Rotary Nat's, just head down on a regular street meet. Wednesday night meets are more Import orientated (less grip though). You'll have a ball & end up hooked like Greg :D Just take the plates off if you're concerned.

Has anybody seen the white R32 with a personalised plate "NUTS"

I would like the dudes phone number if anyone has it.

I liike FLYLICE

dont have his number, but he possibly works at roccas (super cheap) darlington.....

Thanks Matt, but no one can beat your engine bay! Thats show quality detail!

I had a guy come up to me while cruising rundle tonight "Hey buddy, i seen you cruising around here and there, but tell me, what is FLYLICE? what does it mean?!"

haha. on telling him "ahhh.... AHHH!"

BTW does anyone here not know what my plates mean? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...