Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just knocked my rear view mirror when cleaning the interior and it went loose and the little switch at the bottom to change the angle wasnt working anymore.

So, i unscrewed the screw at the back and took the mrror off in hope to find a simple fix but didnt have any luck.

Now i cant even see what the screw threads into? :s anyone else had this problem and or know where it goes or how they work?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299094-r33-rear-view-mirror/
Share on other sites

Found the solution....................Buy another one lol

Theyre a completely sealed unit so couldnt really work out what part had broken but i broke it even more trying t find out so got a new one.

Theyre only $50 (if u haggle)

  • 5 years later...

Found the solution....................Buy another one lol

Theyre a completely sealed unit so couldnt really work out what part had broken but i broke it even more trying t find out so got a new one.

Theyre only $50 (if u haggle)

You're right it's a completely sealed unit. Threw mine in the oven for about 3 minutes at 100 deg C. Makes the plastic a bit more pliable. Pull the plastic out along the long sides and you should be able to fit a flathead into the gap.

Pop the glass out and you'll see that the tightening screw is connected to a bracket that adjusts how hard it clamps down on the 'ball' part of the mirror. If you fully undo the screw I reckon it'd be very difficult to screw it back in without taking it apart.

Easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes.

To pull mirror out of the car just yank it out (has a breakaway mechanism), if anyone is looking for this information in the future.

For my R33 just gave it a yank it came down

My rear view mirrow was a little wobbly, previously owner had just stuck a piece of rubber between the windscreen and it, so without rubber piece it was unusable

When I pulled it the whole thing came down as 2 of the 3 screws had come out

Pull it apart then screwed the attachment back into the clip

Rescrewed back to the roof with all 3 screws

Put cover back on

Good as new

Edited by shakows
  • 1 month later...

You're right it's a completely sealed unit. Threw mine in the oven for about 3 minutes at 100 deg C. Makes the plastic a bit more pliable. Pull the plastic out along the long sides and you should be able to fit a flathead into the gap.

Pop the glass out and you'll see that the tightening screw is connected to a bracket that adjusts how hard it clamps down on the 'ball' part of the mirror. If you fully undo the screw I reckon it'd be very difficult to screw it back in without taking it apart.

Easy fix. Took me about 10 minutes.

To pull mirror out of the car just yank it out (has a breakaway mechanism), if anyone is looking for this information in the future.

I was being an idiot earlier today and took the little screw out, which stuffed the mirror mount.

So I've just tried this. The plastic was still really hard after 3 minutes of baking, tried the screwdriver trick, bent too much and broke the glass.

Grrr at myself :angry:

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to reply to such an old topic - but I thought a few pictures of the mirror, etc might be in order for ones (like I was) not wanting to break anything to get the mirror out... ? ??‍♂️

 

Edit: I should point out I pulled it off from the breakaway clip and then when wanting to install it again, I screwed the big screw back in-between the circlip first and then screwed the three smaller screws into the roof back in.

IMG_20180326_200735.jpg

IMG_20180326_202032.jpg

IMG_20180326_202653.jpg

IMG_20180326_202713.jpg

IMG_20180326_202717.jpg

Edited by jamesnorman93
How I uninstalled and reinstalled it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...