Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

just wanted to say a huge thank you to you all for the information already given...... its amazing !!!

The second part of this is obviousely gearbox selection, I've often wondered why we had two feet, and have come to the conclusion its to race auto !!!!

I've seen some info about electronic controlled auto, is this for real? can you shift without taking your hands off the steering wheel?????

again, any advice info etc etc will be so appreciated.

best regards

nige

OK been mushing the gray matter up top and crunching some numbers around....... well SolidWorks has anyway.

I seem to arrive at a weight figure closer to 1800kg plus a bit more for safety, so my first estimates were a little off the mark.... oooooppppsssss !!!!!

A bit releived to say the least, but on the bright side the overall weight will be better to drive and handle, and also pwr/wgt ratio will be more acceptable....

thanks again for all your advice.....

nige :P

im with bubba, RB2634 with big huffer GT40 or HKS T51

get the head from here or other site, and see spoolimports.com or ripsracing.com both big RB30 ppl obviously stroked out to rips RB33 or spool for RB34

gearbox for an auto get a holden VL auto and pimp it out or as someone said an R34 box and pimp it out

Dan

VL commodore auto is actually a good idea.. i remember reading an article i think it was perth street car about the Jatco trans rebuild. They reckon up to like 1000hp it can handle.

Yeah and heaps of people can build the Jatco boxes nice and strong.

Yak, the auto's in R34's (and in my Stagea, except it's 4WD) are tiptronic and have buttons on the steering wheel to shift.

The ATESSA (4WD) setup from an R32 GTR runs no preload to the front diff (which is in the sump) so it is as simple as pulling a fuse or putting a switch in to turn it off. It is essentially RWD unless it senses wheelspin.. there are a LOT of sensors that would need transplanting though (speed sensors on each wheel, G sensors from in the cabin etc), for someone such as yourself it would be doable but by no means an easy feat.

Hell.. if it was me I'd be going with an RB26/30, GT35R turbo, series 2 Stag auto 4wd box with 32GTR ATESSA setup!

Hi,

I'm a skyline driver and love them heaps. But u can not deny the power, torque, reliability, displacement of the 2jz tt out of a Toyota supra/chaser/soarer/mark ii. They can produce 500hp with stock internals.

Anyhow, as I said I'm a skyline man. But u r after a race car engine and that is my opinion.

Some series' of racing did use the VHs and VKs, but most other series' used VGs and VQs.

Nismo VQ30DETT puts out the same power as the VR38DETT >_<

Remember guys he isnt moving 1400kg of street car, he said atleast 1800 and could be more...he needs torque.

VQ30DET produces as much power and more torque than an RB26DETT...so get a bigger VQ block, DE-K heads, twin turbo's and a Z32 style twin throttle body setup...that would eat ANY RB powered vehicle.

Otherwise, V8 FTW. Go for a VK since theyre lighter than the VHs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...