Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Gearbox Oil

r32line

By r32line,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted

I have a near stock 32 GTR (only performance mods are cat back exhaust, pods and boost restriction valve removed) and was wondering what gearbox oil people would recommend?

I have heard Redline Lightweight Shockproof is one of the best. Has anyone had any experience with this oil? I believe it will be about $250 just to purchase enough oil for the gearbox, but if its as good as I have heard then I don't care.

The second review on this website is from the owner of a 32 GTR:

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/testimonials.asp?CategoryID=3

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299697-r32-gtr-gearbox-oil/
Share on other sites
R324DR Proficient

R324DR

Posted
Posted

i have used redline in my gtr for 2.5 years and cant fault it. I had a crunchy 3rd gear with motul, but now its smooth as with the redline.

some people say redline should be used in a synchro box, but until someone can give me a good reason why not, i'll keep using it, as it has transformed my gearbox.

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i have used redline in my gtr for 2.5 years and cant fault it. I had a crunchy 3rd gear with motul, but now its smooth as with the redline.

some people say redline should be used in a synchro box, but until someone can give me a good reason why not, i'll keep using it, as it has transformed my gearbox.

Cheers. I assume when you refer to redline you are talking about the "shockproof" oil the sell?

BIT SUS Mentor

BIT SUS

Posted
Posted

I've used Redline lightweight shockproof in my gearbox and transfer case in 2 cars for 2 years.

I also use the heavyweight stuff in the diffs.

never had an issue, makes shifts feel a bit more firm and responsive.

worth the money in my opinion.

Mr Niggles

  • 2 weeks later...
Beacher1B0 Apprentice

Beacher1B0

Posted
Posted (edited)

A couple of Canadian owners are using GM Syncromesh tranny fluid, same results as Redline. However, IMO Royal Purple is best and I will be putting some Royal Purple Syncromax to use.

Edited by Beacher1B0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...