Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

long story short my last motor shot 5th cylinder dropped a new one in there took it get my nistune sorted picked it up all sweet

went to drive it this morning that little gauge abve the fuel gauge is reading -7 last time i drove it it was reading 0 does this gauge actual;ly do anything?

since noticing this my car doesnt drive/idle properly at all turbo sometimes spools when it does it hits some sort of cut.... i dont think its fuel cut as its only on 12psi and when it does boost sounds like it has a screamer on it

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299715-need-help-with-r32-boost-car-dying/
Share on other sites

That guage is the factory boost guage -7 is negative (about) 1 bar (14psi) and the last time it was on zero is becuase you didnt have it connected or blocked off... if its still not connected and showing -7 you have a massive leak...

Your problem could be one of many and you havent given much detail on set up, i.e. spark plug type, coil packs, afm, fuel pump etc etc

Also other symptoms like missing or pinging

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So you're telling me this is an external fuel pump? I've had the car for at least 6 years now and it's been there the entire time. I had the car tuned a couple years ago and I had the shop do the fuel system, including a new in-tank Proflow 340 which shit itself about a year later and I replaced it with the same model. I find it odd that they didn't remove this or even make mention of it. I seriously had no idea what it was. How would I test if it's functioning?
    • Don't take it as a guarantee. It's all a game of statistics. And on top of that, smooth over a thick layer of "quality of spanner spinning" as a further Gaussian curve of probability of failure. You play games at anything above ~400 HP, and you're using up margins in terms of engineering and luck.
    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
×
×
  • Create New...