Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Extractors

JJAY34

By JJAY34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JJAY34 Contributor

JJAY34

Posted
Posted

sup guys as you could probably tell from some of my recent posts, that im pretty new to this skyline car shagizmo thingy anyhoos, i was thinking of looking for some extractors for my car what will they do exactly? in conjunction with a new exhaust? and where abouts can i buy them from?

cheers jarrod :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299722-r34-extractors/
Share on other sites
DC33VN Experienced

DC33VN

Posted
Posted
sup guys as you could probably tell from some of my recent posts, that im pretty new to this skyline car shagizmo thingy anyhoos, i was thinking of looking for some extractors for my car what will they do exactly? in conjunction with a new exhaust? and where abouts can i buy them from?

cheers jarrod :(

www.wikipedia.com or top right hand corner search , there are plenty of threads about extractors if you look

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299722-r34-extractors/#findComment-4981247
Share on other sites
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

In Australia, it's either custom made, or get them from DKNE (Dumper King n Exhaust).

Unless you're willing to import them and get the tried & tested Coby Extractors from Parts Co in New Zealand.

Good idea to get them HPC Coated also and shield them from your air box...I forget who it was on here who had extractors melt through the airbox.

With DKNE you can pay for the optional Flange to be able to simply bolt on without welding.

RB25DET doesn't use extractors. On the N/A RB's the extractors dump to a front pipe, to the cat and then the catback. On Turbo RB's the turbo manifold replaces the extractors and the exhaust gas drives the turbo charger exhausting out the back of the turbo through the dump and front pipe to cat to catback. Very different concept.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299722-r34-extractors/#findComment-4982133
Share on other sites
G0DZLR Mentor

G0DZLR

Posted
Posted

i have a set up for sale at the moment mate. when i had them on my 25DE they made a noticable difference, especially in responsiveness and high end power, really opened things up...they were on an R33 but im pretty sure they bolt straight up to 34s aswell. make sure you have a catback to go on down the track too. that combination never fails to work wonders :laugh:

mine are cobys, all flanges are on and ready to bolt on.

$250 and theyre yours.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299722-r34-extractors/#findComment-4990707
Share on other sites
KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

Put them on my Supra and I honestly didn't feel any difference. Apparently they're good for 15-20rwkw on the 2JZ-GE (not JUST the extractors, this is stock exhaust to full custom exhaust), but I like I said I didn't notice it.

Once I replaced the exposed pod (this is after the exhaust) with a stock box and aftermarket panel filter I did notice a significant boost to power, although nothing spectacular.

Point I'm trying to make is unless you're planning on taking your car to the track, drag strip, etc and really want to squeeze every watt of power out of it, I suggest you don't do it. It's expensive for very little gain. Put your money towards cosmetics or save it for when you get off your P's.

Although one great thing about the extractors (at least on the 2JZ) is it makes the exhaust note sound awesome. Very high-pitched, racey and unlike 90% of the deep and "droney" import cannons out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299722-r34-extractors/#findComment-4992557
Share on other sites
4 door love Enthusiast

4 door love

Posted
Posted
i have a set up for sale at the moment mate. when i had them on my 25DE they made a noticable difference, especially in responsiveness and high end power, really opened things up...they were on an R33 but im pretty sure they bolt straight up to 34s aswell. make sure you have a catback to go on down the track too. that combination never fails to work wonders :P

mine are cobys, all flanges are on and ready to bolt on.

$250 and theyre yours.

is that delivered?? if so, definitely keen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299722-r34-extractors/#findComment-4997134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...