Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So use r33 sensors?

But then these have to be bent to clear some other pipework or cabling don't they?

Maybe I should just go the Tomei's. I already have a good aftermarket front pipe but I don't the its as wide as the tomei outlet.

Go tomei, the trust ones are a pita, i swapped mine out about a year or so ago..

my new front pipe wasnt quiet as big as the tomei outlet either but a die grinder made it a little better for flow.

Make sure you got the gtr one and not the vspec ones. They should all fit perfectly (maybe o2 will need some work) across all 3 models but the 34vspec has extra o2. No biggy, just need to find a bolt or bung to seal it up.

Why bother with the O2 sensor?

The RB26 is not a fuel efficient engine and having the O2 won't help much.

I changed my Mines dump and front pipe, which is similar to the Tomei dump, to the Greddy and gained a few hundreds rpm of boost response.

BTW does your Greddy front pipe have a flex pipe? If it doesn't, it would be best to get one installed.

ORIGINAL Trust pipes come with adaptors, so it doesnt matter what O2.

be careful of copies though. There are a solid number of cheap knockoff's floating around for a while whose flanges etc were all uneven, different sizes etc.

Thanks everyone, I have spotted a genuine set. Just know there are mixed opinions about these pipes.

The only reason I am considering is because the price is not much more than tomei dumps.

they are the best flowing kit on the market.

I actually think there was a set going cheap at autobarn narre warren when i was down there last, nearly bought it as a spare.

Edited by URAS

Just be mindful about the O2 sensor types, R32 GTRs use a Titania based sensor, while 33's and 34s use a Zirconia based sensor, you can't use a Zirconia based sensor on the R32 GTR ecu (well you can, but it won't work as well).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...