Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are quite an old turbo, but still work bloody well. Not sure on the best place to get them as i'm from Perth so might need to ring around or check ebay or yahoo japan. The KKR's are newer and stronger, as long as they're genuine, not china crap. So up to you on if u wanna spend a bit more for better quality and just get a KKR430 or KKR480 would be better off for a 20/25.

Do you have a 20 or 25? T04e from memory are T4 flange so u will need an adapter plate to fit the RB's, you can get them off ebay or try a local jap dealer. I'm not sure if it will fit on a stock mani as there isnt much room down there, u may need to get a high mount mani, which will make it lagier BUT will look uber wicked cool lol :huh:

Well thats my 2 cents. Hope i helped a lil bit......( and if i'm wrong about any of the above, let me know :D )

Cheers,

Danielle

Edited by Angr33_Sparcorella
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300453-t04e-turbo/#findComment-4992014
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
cheers Daniel,have a mate with KKR480.hasn't missed a beat with no troubles so will go that way i think.the T04e was recommended by a drift buddy,he's never had one just heard they were good for our purposes

ive got a t04e on my rb20 with a cast hks manifold and a 50mm hks external gate and it dosent crack the gate untill around 5500rpm :banana: makes good power up top but down low its shit :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300453-t04e-turbo/#findComment-5028373
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...