Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, time has come to sell the old wreck. Located in Deception Bay, QLD. Contact "message only" 0401297648 and i will call you back or via PM/Thread post.

Included is:

R33 gtst rolling shell (Repairable writeoff)

RB25det (76000k)

Full auto Driveline (76000k)

Choice of 2 catbacks

Cooling pro return feed fmic with piping

*Please note part of the loom for the engine and the auto box are missing. These were needed to the the other Skyline running.

*Shell and Engine are still kept under cover at all times. Damaged panels also still available on request.

*At this point in time i'm only willing to seperate the shell from the engine, not the engine from the shell. Want it all gone.

**Asking $5,000 for the lot or offers on the shell only

CARUNDERCOVERSALE.jpg

Engine in the picture is not the engine included

DAMAGESALE.jpg

CARFRESHCOVERSALE.jpg

This is the engine for sale

ENGINESALE.jpg

Also for sale seperately

PWR 600x300x68 FMIC. Paid 650 from PWR, asking $600. Has Never been on the road, only a couple of dyno runs then taken straight off.

PWRCOOLERSALE.jpg

All items listed are as is and pickup only.

For any further pics or information of any detail etc you need only ask.

Cheers Justin.

damage is what youve listed. plus reo, radiator support, air con [expected], radiator [expected] and some bending up to, but not including the strut tower. chassis rail came out fine.

another picture for you.

damagesale-1.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...