Jump to content
SAU Community

how did u run your brass buttun clutch in??


WHITE R32
 Share

Recommended Posts

how did u run it in???like how many km did u do b4 thrashing it and also whats the expected life of one of these if its not slipped excessively???? mine is a 5 puck sprung centre brass button exedy extreme clutch.. good for 600hp or so...im wacking it in tomorow.... cheers guys Jon :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

start you car depress the accelerator till you start hearing the pop pop pop sound then release you foot off the clutch :D

yes they are very tough no need to run them in .

and yes you can knife them as much as you like .

mine was new b4 the jms drift meet did the meet and poped the motor and they checked the clutch and it was still new. so dont strees :

enjoy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've put in 3 brass button 5 puck clutches now !!

One in a R32 GTS4. One in a R33 GTS-t, and another in a Celica GT4.

The ones in the R32 and R33 were driven gently for the first 500-700km. No dumping the clutch or riding it badly and they turned out great.

The one in the GT4, the bloke dumped the clutch after about 50km and for ages (8000km) he had clutch shudder pretty bad :D

I'd say just take it easy until it beds in then go for it :D

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They grab really really hard and are not designed to be slipped... I have one in my GTR, and its like an on/off switch (5 puck brass button Nismo/Exedy unit with some upgraded hardcore pressure plate).

The downside is they can put alot of strain on components like gearboxes, driveshafts and diff's because the can grab quite viciously.

Alot of places are reccomending against brass button now for the above reasons, but some people love them. Im impartial... I dont particularly like mine, and am going to replace it with a twin plate next chance I get and have some money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To my understanding u can get brass/ceramic button clutches on a solid or sprung centre..... obviously the solid centre is just pretty much on/off and the sprung one has a bit more give but is still pretty hard to slip etc... but the sprung ones can be slipped a bit but its not reccomended....i had a super heavy duty organic clutch in mine that was about 8000km old and it shat on the dyno since i increased the power and even slipped its ass off on low boost (7 psi) thats why i went semi hardcore this time........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We (Gary1 and I) put mine in, let the car warm up and then fanged it. I don't remember how long ago I swapped it (a year, maybe more?) but it's still fine now -it grabs nice and hard, but is still fairly smooth, if you could call a brass button clutch smooth :)

Mine's a 5-puck with a sprung centre and 2750lb pressure plate. I find mine quite easy to drive now that I'm used to it.

DJ984

A brass button clutch is still a conventional clutch in terms of physical design, it just has far less contact area, so if you really[/] want to ride it then you still can. A button clutch can "sort of" be ridden, but the grab point comes in very suddenly and if you try to slip it, it will shudder. Once worn in a button clutch loses some of it harshness though - my clutch has an "in between" area between engaged and disengaged. I don't like to use it unless I have to (wears it out in no time) but it has come in handy for those times when I've had to do a hillstart in front of a Police car in the rain :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...