Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4000rpm/15psi is average for 230rwkw.

Are you sure the actuator on there is solid and holding the gate shut? A few GCG hi-flows suffered from this in the earlu day where the preload was not enough.

its a auto running 15psi?!? what would you expect...

Looks like i might need to upgrade my actuator first and see how i go from their. I didn't get one when i got the hi-flow so if the stock one is only 5psi its probably not enough. I'll take it to chasers and see what they can do.'

Cheers so much for the help guys!

its a auto running 15psi?!? what would you expect...

Power is a bit low, due to the auto which is normal.

loaded up on a dyno - same as a manual, so not 4000rpm for 15psi give the turbo.

much of a muchness when loaded up in regards to response

Another idea, bigger stall converter, not as easy as changing wastegate and wont bring the boost on before 4000rpm but it will get boost easier and make the car faster.

Nitrous Oxide! it will bring it on REAL quick!

3lt bottom end will too.

Port work and cams

Higher static CR

Better bottomend/off boost tuning

Cam gear adjustment

Ball bearing core and billet comp wheel

Methanol and a bunch of timing

Wire the wastegate shut

Bigger/better dump pipe and exhaust set up

Heavier right foot

Get a bigger actuator before you get an EBC.

OR

Live with it... you have to sacrifice somthing for more power.

Honestly I loved every single one of your ideas except for the live with it one :D I agree just get yourself a bigger actuator, say 14 or 16 psi and forget the dam boost controller for now. EBC is always better than manual boost controller :) It has lights and buttons :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...