Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok So I have a R32 GTR and I have just made a big mistake from what I can tell.

So I have 2 cars a S14 and R32 GTR, While my S14 was getting work done on it i swaped the wheels so 2x S14 rims on the back and normal GTR ones on the from. I started driving and noticed that my Tourque meter was playing up and the cars power was going loopy cuting in and out and the tourque meter was testing in the middle and going up at slow speeds.

Now reading a thread on here i have just relised that it was the cause of the problem and that I shouldn't have been swapping tyers around like that but now I have the problem that even with the 4 R32 GTR wheels on it that the tourque meter is still playing up not to mention I now have a stedy dripping from the middle of the car (gearbox area)

I can not be sure where it is coming from though.

So what have I broken and is it expencive to fix?

Thanks all

It might be the hydraulic feed to the transfer case that's dripping- you will get slow response on the gauge if there's air in the hydraulic system too. check exactly where the leak is coming from before panicking too much and post it up. If you end up needing to fix the transfer case it's easier to buy a second hand one (200-300 bucks max) than rebuild-I have just rebuilt mine with new clutches and everything- parts end up being about a grand to do the minimum required (new bearings etc) Labour would be a bit though- I'd be happy to help you out though if your stuck for a financially viable option, I now have a spare transfer case with some good condition clutches and a fair bit of info on how to work on them.

most likely the transfer case is wrecked due to being overheated massively whilst you had the wrong wheels on. and yes gears may change fine. that has nothing to do with the transfer case. take it to a workshop who knows GTRs and get them to properly diagnose the problem. could be small, could be big. anyone on here is just playing a guessing game. the only way to find out is bite the bullet and take it somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...