Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, tommorrow im finaly gunna get some ICE :P (new sound system) :D

And i was just wondering if is should amp my speakers, heres what im getting : all full alpine :ermm:

-Head Unit CDA-9886.

-Front splits SPR-17S TYPE-R 6.5" COMPONENT SPEAKERS

-Rear 6's SPR-17C TYPE R 6.5" COAXIAL SPEAKERS.

-12 INCH SUB, SWR-1222D TYPE-R 12" SUBWOOFER

-AMP FOR SUB, MRP-M1000 V-POWER MONO AMPLIFIER

And if i amp the speakers which i think i am it would be :

-MRP-F600 V-POWER 4/3/2 CH AMPLIFIER.

Is it a good idea to amp my speakers? like and extra 500 or so doesnt matter, and if im spending what i am it would be best to amp the speakers to get the most out of the system, would you agree?

also theres a new thing that plugs into the headunit (at the back) which ads like 65 rms to each speaker for 200$, dont relaly know much about it...

i have a JVC headunit, rockford fosgate 6.5 inch splits front and 6.5 inch coax rears. Doors fully lined with dynamat and all hooked up to a sony 4 channel amp. TO be honest i dont need a sub with that set up.

So my 2c is that YES YES get a amp for your speakers, as then they wont get drowned out by your sub and if youre paying for good speakers you may as well show their potential with an amp; but also GET DYNAMAT, makes R33 doors sound SO much better.

i have a JVC headunit, rockford fosgate 6.5 inch splits front and 6.5 inch coax rears. Doors fully lined with dynamat and all hooked up to a sony 4 channel amp. TO be honest i dont need a sub with that set up.

So my 2c is that YES YES get a amp for your speakers, as then they wont get drowned out by your sub and if youre paying for good speakers you may as well show their potential with an amp; but also GET DYNAMAT, makes R33 doors sound SO much better.

Thanks mate :D

yeah that what i though, might as well get the most out of it :P

dynamat.. now is that worth it?:ermm: ta

Definately need an amp, personally i would not bother about rear speakers though, i have focal splits front and rear and when i turn the rears off there is no difference.

If i was you i would go for a good 4 chan amp. run the fronts off 2 chans and bridge the other 2 for the sub.

why even bother putting type r splits without an amplifier? clearly states on the box that they're 110wrms..

alpine also do a package that comes with splits + 6x9's + amp for about 300 off retail.. i swap the 6x9's for customers all the time.

why even bother putting type r splits without an amplifier? clearly states on the box that they're 110wrms..

alpine also do a package that comes with splits + 6x9's + amp for about 300 off retail.. i swap the 6x9's for customers all the time.

Maybe its just me but i think 6x9's are a poor mans sub that will never match a small 10" sub let alone a decent 12".

Step 1. Pull out rear speakers

Step 2. Dynamat, you don't need loads of it to make a huge difference

Step 3. Amp front splits

Rear speakers are almost always a waste of money, and stuff up the imaging of your front stage, unless you really enjoy sitting in the back of your car whilst driving, ditch the speakers and leave the holes empty. You will find you have heaps more bass in the cabin from the subbass in the boot having an unimpeded path to you.

cheers,

Jesse

Hey, system went in a few days ago, its really good :D amp'd and all, now only problem is sorting our the rattles. lol..

you know the "skyline" centre between the taillights, well bass shook two of the four nuts off, one each side.. but i couldnt be happier :)

Hey, system went in a few days ago, its really good :D amp'd and all, now only problem is sorting our the rattles. lol..

you know the "skyline" centre between the taillights, well bass shook two of the four nuts off, one each side.. but i couldnt be happier :)

A tiny bit of lock tight will hold them on, as for other rattles, you just have to go looking for them, some might be loose bolts or fittings some will just be parts rubbing or hitting, try some foam under some bits others try something like sika flex to attach the part properly.

A tiny bit of lock tight will hold them on, as for other rattles, you just have to go looking for them, some might be loose bolts or fittings some will just be parts rubbing or hitting, try some foam under some bits others try something like sika flex to attach the part properly.

its pretty much just my rear bar, but too unsure to put tension on it as it could stress and break?

its pretty much just my rear bar, but too unsure to put tension on it as it could stress and break?

Depends how much pressure you put on it, would take a lot to break it, find where it is rattling and just use a finger to push on it, if it stops you need to put some foam or something behind it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
    • Off the back of feedback we have decided to mix up this next Motorkhana at Avalon to have some targeted skills practice for beginners to advanced. Saturday 6th September 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Friday 5th February  Where: 55 beach road Avalon. https://maps.app.goo.gl/HNUE3EuNue3sJxh38 Entries: Limited to 26 entrants (Passengers allowed over the age of 14 with a signed disclaimer and same safety gear) Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license via the AASA Website for $50) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/  A helmet, long sleeve clothing and a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher recommended (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs on the enty link. Entry Link > https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250906 You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Bring your car and get to battle others, win, lose or draw. I can guarantee you will have lots of fun. Any questions email [email protected] Entry List: 1.Anna S 2. Luke S 3. Jesse Givens-Lamb 4. Luca Stamatescu 5. Madeleine Stamatescu    
    • Wanna rewrite all of that in, say, 2 or 3 separate sentences, so that we can read it?
×
×
  • Create New...