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Rewards to anyone that can find the solution (no I aint kidding).

My mechanic said that if it still wasn't right after today that he would have it for another day to pull apart the master cylinder again and check that everything is doing what it is sposed to do.

i had a similar problem and the cause was the master cylinder was not put together wrong. one of the rubber seals was around the wrong way causing the fluid to bypass the first part of the piston, it had very similar problems to what you have described.

I would get them to check it out, they also may have pinched a seal when assembling.

Get them to pull the master cylinder apart again.

Ta

Mal

Well the mechanics had my car again on Tuesday and then Thursday as well. They have had 3 different mechanics drive my car for quite afew km's and cannot find any problems with the pedal at all.

They want me to get an independant test done by NRMA ($250) to prove to me that the pedal/brake system is perfectly fine. If NRMA find a fault the mechanics are going to fix it and pay for the NRMA Inspection but if their is no fault found im stuck with a dud brake system and a bill for $250.

I'll be back at RaceBrakes sometime this week to get them to check and re-check everything that they did before I took it to this other workshop.

Ben, sorry to read you still havent got this sorted.

If the pedal has two different heights at which it is operating then that doesnt sound right, but keep in mind respective pedal heights when driving, think about the brake pedal height when you have dived on it, and look at its height relaitve to the accelerator for heel toeing.

I have driven a car with a very high brake pedal, day to day i though it was kinda cool, but when you try to heel and toe, the brake pedal is impossibly high, and the thing has a king of on/off feel to it.

So keep heel and toe in mind when you are looking at changing the brake pedal height...and good luck, ill include you in a few prayers this week. :D

Well after another minor adjustment and then Roy taking it for abit of a spin last Saturday night (thanks heaps Roy) I spent the morning at Race Brakes and they couldn't fault it. The pedal feels good, I just need to get back on the track and really see what its like.

So it looks like its all over, now all I need is some track tyres :wassup:

Oh something else to add to the convo...

Greg at RaceBrakes said that the pedal in Skylines will initially feel soft (after turning corners) because of "pad knock back". This is when you turn a corner and the rotor pushes the caliper/pad/piston back as it moves. The cause of this is warn (or starting to wear) wheel bearings. Apparently the GTR Skylines are bad from the factory where as the GTS-t's take awhile for it to appear.

Was just talking to Kevin from GavSport (St Marys) and he said that they put 2psi springs in behind the pistons to force the pistons out instead of being pushed back. I might investigate this and see how it goes.

  • 2 months later...

Update....

Well brakes still are no where near adequate.

The brake shop that I have been getting most of this work done (over the last 6mths) have come to an agreement that they will refund the costs involved in bore/sleeve my Master Brake Cylinder when I have a new 1 fitted (at a different, more reputable workshop). After having my car for easily 10 days in the last 4mths they blatantly swear their are no issues at all with my brakes, I feel sorry for any mum or dad getting their brakes fixed at this workshop as their lives are in huge danger.

I'll be getting the master fitted sometime in the next week along with a fresh bottle of brake fluid (about the 50th litre in the last 12mths) and then I pray that I have no brake issues for the next 15yrs otherwise im gonna scream so loud that Perth SAU'rs will hear me :P

The new Master Cylinder was ordered from 'Hornsby Nissan' (Nissan Import Spare parts specialist) for $491 and took 1 week to be delivered to my door. The part # is 46010-75T02 and here are some pics (ok im bored!!)

master1.jpg

master2.jpg

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