Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What happen is that i just got my power fc and avc-r install by the professional (recommended) workshop. Quite impress with the result at 210 krw, to cut the story short. While driving home the car stall on me. Can't start... tow the car back home. A friend look at it's for a number of hours looking at the fuel pump, battery, alternator, starter motor seem to be fine. He then tested all the fuses underneath the right hand steering colum using a multi-meter and found 1 of the fuse been burn

Crank up the car and it's seem to start up... We notice that the check "engine" picture appear on the display. Quickly he turn the car off then on again after a fews minutes... Coincidently one of the spark die so we just left it there to continue tommorrow.

My question while we got the car start it's again, but other problem start to happen... could it's be after the car been tune the car is running too rich/ to lean or there is a serious short circuit somewhere in the electrical area?

PS. At the dyno place the old NGK iridium die, so they replace with platinum serie. We have try to put the old ECU back, but it's dosent seem to start... wonder why????????

Any advice will become valuable... much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30193-big-problem-need-advice-quick/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You don’t need to use full throttle all the time to break these blocks, 500kw at the wheels in more then enough to break them even with an occasional squirt. Hell I’ve seen them break under 400kw
    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
×
×
  • Create New...