Jump to content
SAU Community

Codes For The Active Lsd Computer

guru_ray
 Share

Recommended Posts

guru_ray Rookie

guru_ray

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I have looked far and wide but i still can't find what I am looking for.

Does anyone have a list of the codes that the control module for the A-LSD flashes out when an error is detected?.

On the underside of the module in the boot is a light that flashes codes in the same way that the ECU does.

Edit 'my car is a 1993 r33 GTS-T manuel.

Thanks

Ray.

Edited by guru_ray
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302002-codes-for-the-active-lsd-computer/
Share on other sites
guru_ray Rookie

guru_ray

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK,

This seems to be a hard question.

If someone out there wants to do me a favour?

Moanie suggested in one of her posts she knew what one of the the codes was on her A-lsd module.

If somebody wants to send a PM to Moanie ask if she can post the codes here, if she has them.

Moanie if you don't have codes for the A-Lsd module where did 'read' the TPS error?

I cannot send personal messages until i have made 10 posts.

I don't see the point in spamming threads just so I can send a message.

If the answer is out there lets get it up here! :bunny:

Ray

ps. if you send a message to Moanie post you have done so, so she don't get a mailbox full of spam.

Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
OK,

This seems to be a hard question.

If someone out there wants to do me a favour?

Moanie suggested in one of her posts she knew what one of the the codes was on her A-lsd module.

If somebody wants to send a PM to Moanie ask if she can post the codes here, if she has them.

Moanie if you don't have codes for the A-Lsd module where did 'read' the TPS error?

I cannot send personal messages until i have made 10 posts.

I don't see the point in spamming threads just so I can send a message.

If the answer is out there lets get it up here! :bunny:

Ray

ps. if you send a message to Moanie post you have done so, so she don't get a mailbox full of spam.

I don't know if you have seen This but it has links to other topics on the SAU forums that have lot of info on the Active LSD option in R33 skylines. Maybe try checking it out first. It may clear your error for you but doing some simple bleeding.

guru_ray Rookie

guru_ray

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Deano45

Dead link for me?.

I have studied all the links in the sticky at the top of this section of the forums if that was what you were referring to.

I am trying to read the codes so I can get this thing working properly, I am single spinning at the moment.

And have two codes one is TPS the other I don't know.

Thanks all help appreciated.

Ray.

guru_ray Rookie

guru_ray

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Stock ECU is in the car now.

Codes I have are 75 which i believe to TPS

And 62 which if the same as the Attessa codes would be front and rear right G sensor???? I don't think the GTS-T has G sensors???

Will be going with apexi powerfc later and splicing the wires for the TPS, If I get the A-LSD working that is.

Ray.

Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
Deano45

Dead link for me?.

I have studied all the links in the sticky at the top of this section of the forums if that was what you were referring to.

I am trying to read the codes so I can get this thing working properly, I am single spinning at the moment.

And have two codes one is TPS the other I don't know.

Thanks all help appreciated.

Ray.

Sorry try this link

The other link didn't post properly

What error codes are you getting?

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

The G-sensors it is referring to is the wheel speed sensors. This is what your ABS uses also, hence if you have an ABS fault, your A-LSD goes to shit. This becomes a problem when doing stand still burnouts and locking up the front wheels. The ABS sometimes gets a fault since the front wheels aren't spinning but the rears are and then the diff goes into single spinner mode. Hence not the best diff if you like doing stand stills.

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
The G-sensors it is referring to is the wheel speed sensors. This is what your ABS uses also, hence if you have an ABS fault, your A-LSD goes to shit. This becomes a problem when doing stand still burnouts and locking up the front wheels. The ABS sometimes gets a fault since the front wheels aren't spinning but the rears are and then the diff goes into single spinner mode. Hence not the best diff if you like doing stand stills.

And another piece to the puzzle fits in,

Always wondered why the car defaulted to single pegger when I did a brake lock burnout. Thanks mate.

Deano45 Rising Star

Deano45

Posted
Posted
Thanks I have read every thing there all the links.

Codes are 75 and 62.

Cheers

Ray.

I could be going down the wrong path but these are the codes for the Attesa ETS ECU in the R33 GTR.

The diff is the same one as the V-Spec, so I would assume that it would use the same/similar computer to control the diff & ABS.

Going off these codes 75 is the Throttle Position sensor. This normally looks for 0.5v fully closed. You can check this with a multimeter and move the sensor until it has that reading.

PM-R33 looks like he has covered the error 62

Error Codes:

1,5 Front right wheel sensor and circuit

2,6 Front left wheel sensor and circuit

3,7 Rear right wheel sensor and circuit

4,8 Rear left whel sensor and circuit

11,21 Front right inlet solenoid valve and circuit

12,22 Front left inlet solenoid valve and circuit

13,23 Rear inlet solenoid valve and circuit

15,25 Front right outlet solenoid valve and circuit

16,26 Front left outlet solenoid valve and circuit

17,27 Rear outlet solenoid valve and circuit

31,32,33 E-TS solenoid and circuit

34,35,36 E-TS fail safe solenoid and circuit

41,42 ABS actuator relay and circuit

43,44 ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit

45,46,77 ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit

47,48 E-TS/ABS control unit power supply and circuit

51,52 E-TS actuator motor and circuit

53,54 Pressure switch and circuit

55 Air bleed switch and circuit

56 E-TS oil level switch and circuit

61 FR and RR G sensor 1 and circuit

62 FR and RR G sensor 2 and circuit

63 FR and RR G sensor 1 or 2 and circuit

64 G sensor 1 power supply and circuit

65 G- sensor 2 power supply and circuit

66 Side G sensor and circuit

75 Throttle position sensor and circuit and sensor

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Haha yeah, it is the most over complicated diff in history. I think one day im just gonna get rid of it and put a 1.5 way into it, it's such an annoying diff. Great when it works normally, but a pain in the ass when it decides not to work.

guru_ray Rookie

guru_ray

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The G-sensors it is referring to is the wheel speed sensors. This is what your ABS uses also, hence if you have an ABS fault, your A-LSD goes to shit. This becomes a problem when doing stand still burnouts and locking up the front wheels. The ABS sometimes gets a fault since the front wheels aren't spinning but the rears are and then the diff goes into single spinner mode. Hence not the best diff if you like doing stand stills.

Ok wheel speed sensors, where the hell are they?.

I would have thought that they would be on the hubs, with a magnetic reader and a magnet spinning with the hub?

No wiring going to the hubs at all.

There are two sensors of some sort on the back of the diff itself ether side with two wires each. I followed these wires and they go to the Hicas Module.

Stupid diff.

On a side note I have a hicas lock bar. The wiring for the hicas does no need to plugged in to make this diff work does it?

Ray

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
Ok wheel speed sensors, where the hell are they?.

I would have thought that they would be on the hubs, with a magnetic reader and a magnet spinning with the hub?

No wiring going to the hubs at all.

There are two sensors of some sort on the back of the diff itself ether side with two wires each. I followed these wires and they go to the Hicas Module.

Stupid diff.

On a side note I have a hicas lock bar. The wiring for the hicas does no need to plugged in to make this diff work does it?

Ray

There are two sensors of some sort on the back of the diff itself ether side with two wires each. I followed these wires and they go to the Hicas Module.

Well done chief, that are they!

guru_ray Rookie

guru_ray

Posted
  • Author
Posted
There are two sensors of some sort on the back of the diff itself ether side with two wires each. I followed these wires and they go to the Hicas Module.

Well done chief, that are they!

Any ideas on how test these for correct operation, is there a resistance test?.

Ray.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
Nope HICAS does not effect the operation at all. Honestly i have never looked for the wheel speed sensors so am not sure.

They are definitely the sensors but I do not know where they go, can let you know tomorrow. But I suspect it may be of no use to you as I have a GTR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • eli995
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By eli995 · Posted

      (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...