Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Question

Jap4life
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
Posted

Hey there,

I have a 1992 GTS4 but i am missing all the bolts for the diff to the half shafts.

Finding parts for GTS4s where I am is hard and I havnt found anything with same bolt pattern.

I was wondering whether the bolts from any viscous LSD to half shafts from Laurel, Cefiro or GTST or whatever, will fit fine even if the bolt pattern is different? Obviously I will need more of them but will they bolt in fine. Im hoping they will because it will make life easier for me :)

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302188-r32-gts4-question/
Share on other sites
-Jimmy- Mentor

-Jimmy-

Posted
Posted (edited)

I ended up having to buy the nuts and bolts directly from Nissan, it cost me $77 :)

If you are talking about the 6 bolt and 5 bolt pattern's bolts being the same diameter, I wouldn't want to be assuming they are the same. They very well could be but I have to tell you, you want a snug fit when dealing with these moving parts.

The previous owner of my car put slightly smaller diamter bolts into the halfshafts from the drive axles, and eventually there was too much play in the two components, and the bolts gave way and my driveshaft fell from the car while I was driving.\

Any other questions just ask, and sometimes it's easier to chuck some pics up too. GTS-4 is probably different to the GTS-t stuff I've been dealing with. How many bolt are you half shafts and axles, and is it just the nuts and bolts that you need?

Edited by -Jimmy-
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yeah ^^

It is better to buy new ones like he said. The bolts act as locating studs also so they are not something you can just buy off the shelf. I think you are also right about the 5stud vs 6stud axles having different sizes. The more I think about it, the more I think that is, in fact, the case.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh ok yeah Im thinking of the half shafts to drive shaft nuts and bolts.

I went to Nissan and they told me it would be worth going to Nisbits which stock the most Nissan secondhand parts in nz, but Nisbits are useless as hell and they didnt help me at all.

The guy i bought the car off had bought a whole lot of bolts from the local hardware store but luckily he didnt get around to reinstalling the diff or im thinking it would have ended in chaos.

Im thinking about getting a few bolts and checking them for fitment and if they aren't perfect then I will have to explore other options.

Its just the nuts and bolts that i need.

DSC00559.jpg

Here is a picture. I checked my GTR manual and it seems even that has a different pattern. What will have the same pattern as my car?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Get Nissan NZ to order them. They are just being lazy. It will only take 10 days to get them.

If that doesn't work, order them from Nissan Australia. +61 7 32907890 and get them to send them over.

If that doesn't work, let me know and I'll send them over.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

It's a bolt! Possibly 8mm x 1.25 x 20mm. On my 32 GTS4, the bolts come in from the diff side, through the diff flange and screw into the axle / halfshaft flange.

You can't fit bolts that are too small! It either has the right size or it doesn't have the right size. Just make sure they are done up tightly and it should hold.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well found they are the same bolts as the ones from the front of the diff to the driveshaft and im hoping those are more generic?

I realise I need to find something HT and i was assuming anything from the drivetrain would be strong enough?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
Well found they are the same bolts as the ones from the front of the diff to the driveshaft and im hoping those are more generic?
On mine those are an Allen bolt.
I realise I need to find something HT and i was assuming anything from the drivetrain would be strong enough?
All I'm saying is that you don't need to source the bolts from Nissan. Any auto parts store or bolt supplier will have a bolt that will do the job. And there are no nuts involved.
fletch rb30 Enthusiast

fletch rb30

Posted
Posted

its an m8 or m10 cap screw. standard metric fine pitch.

Hold the cv together and measure the length of the bolt you need and add 10mm to it. then go through your pile of nissan bolts and find one that screws into the flange on the diff.

take this bolt and the length you need to a bolt shop. if your near east tamaki, go to bay engineering supplies and ask for D, tell her fletch sent you, and she will sort you out and give you a good price.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks bro will give that a go!

Rung up Nissan and in true nz style the guy told me he'd ring me back as soon as possible aka yeah yeah i might ring you back if i feel like it. Hahaha

Just a question, do i need to request a certain strength of the bolts or anything?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Thanks bro will give that a go!

Rung up Nissan and in true nz style the guy told me he'd ring me back as soon as possible aka yeah yeah i might ring you back if i feel like it. Hahaha

Just a question, do i need to request a certain strength of the bolts or anything?

minimum 8.8 grade but aim for a 10. 12's will be socket head (cap head) which you can use but they are a pain in the arse.

Jap4life Apprentice

Jap4life

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its an m8 or m10 cap screw. standard metric fine pitch.

Everything is measured up but just wondering what the above means exactly :)

And how thick do you think the washers should be? In the workshop manual it looks like the half shaft bolts have washers.

I also need the nuts and bolts for the 4WD shaft and Ill go the same route for them too but i need nuts too

Thanks

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Ok got it now, M means metric, 10 means 10mm thread diameter and standard metric fine pitch is the thread pitch.

M10 fine is Metric 10mm x 1.25mm pitch

M10 standard is Metric 10mm x 1.5mm pitch

Coarse is 1.75

The pitch doesn't matter too much as you are getting nuts to suit but I would definitely go with a fine pitch with something like this...you don't want it to rattle loose, and try to get Nyloc nuts to suit it. Washer size doesn't matter, just make sure the bolt goes through 100% of the nut minimum.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...