Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nah, got someone else to do it on a dyno. After watching it once though, I think I could do it myself now on a dyno. Anyway..... I'll tell you something else though..

I went to someone who claimed he could "street tune" the SAFC for $50 (coz a dyno tune was over $100, and i had no job and was a tight arse). I told him I wanted the hesitating at 5500 rpm that was so common to boosted R33's sorted out. This guy did the worst tune, basically did stuff all difference to A/F ratio's, but he wound the timing right back to 10 deg, so I wouldn't feel the hesitation... Needless to say the car ran like SH1T!!! Smooth, but slower than in stock form!

So anyhow, I wound the timing up to 17deg, boosted to 11psi, and took it to get it dyno tuned. Needless to say I was very happy with the results afterwards.

If u aren't experienced or confident enough to tune it yourself (and u r at the risk of wasting ur engine if you lean it out too much), take it to a dyno where u can have a lot more confidence in your tune....

Thought I would show you my FMIC,

I purchased this FMIC second hand for under $1000 and it bolts striaght up to the existing plumbing...

It's not too big but you can tell it does the job. The biggest improvement was the flow (up high like 4500 rpm) compared to the stock I/C. Then you also notice less heat soak on warm days.

Anyways, I am also aiming for as close to 200 rwkw's as I can. The below FMIC will be fine:

Regards

Rob

Hay mates what about the EVO 4 intercooler? Becasue i also thinking of upgrades the standard intercooler, the garage guy rekon me to put an EVO 4 intercooler for my R33 GTST! But i haven't done it yet, because i'm still thinking of it. Does it make lots different, if i put the EVO 4 intercooler? Has anyone done it b4!

cheers

steven

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...