Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I have been reading that there is a drain plug on the block which you can use to get rid of all the coolant from the block.

Does anybody have any pics of this plug or can you explain to me where it is??

I drained the radiator, took the hoses off it and put compressed air through the block, all up we only replaced 5 litres of coolant and thats including the resorvoir tank, i have read that the r34GTT takes about 8-9 litres so theres still 4 litres of coolant somewhere which i cant get out???

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/
Share on other sites

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo.

Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished.

Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013102
Share on other sites

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo.

Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished.

Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

So turn on the car, have the heater on for a while until it gets hot, turn car off, drain radiator and engine bock, fill with water, bleed air out.

Run the car up again with heater on, drain the radiator and block again, bleed again,then fill with coolant while the car is runing with heater on??

Thats it corect?

Thanks for your help mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013141
Share on other sites

nah man, take the thermostat out, jam the hose in there, turn the heater on, and start the car.

Keep it running for a few minutes after clean water starts coming out.

Make sure the output of the water goes somewhere where it won't hit the radiator fan and spray everywhere, etc.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013170
Share on other sites

nah man, take the thermostat out, jam the hose in there, turn the heater on, and start the car.

Keep it running for a few minutes after clean water starts coming out.

Make sure the output of the water goes somewhere where it won't hit the radiator fan and spray everywhere, etc.

Will that completely drain out the block like the drain plug would?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013212
Share on other sites

it will flush the block \ everything.

Just remember that you have fresh water in the block, so take that into account when putting your coolant in.

All I do - Take the radiator out, Jam the hose in where the thermostat goes, turn on the heater, start the car and run for a while until the water comes out clear. The tap water will keep the engine cool. Then I put it all back together (flushing the radiator manually) and pour the correct amount of coolant concentrate in, top up with distilled water, and keep topping up and bleeding until its full.

You could drain the block after you flush it, so that you can get more demineralised water in there (and less tap water). But thats up to you. Pretty good idea too actually.

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013249
Share on other sites

it will flush the block \ everything.

Just remember that you have fresh water in the block, so take that into account when putting your coolant in.

All I do - Take the radiator out, Jam the hose in where the thermostat goes, turn on the heater, start the car and run for a while until the water comes out clear. The tap water will keep the engine cool. Then I put it all back together (flushing the radiator manually) and pour the correct amount of coolant concentrate in, top up with distilled water, and keep topping up and bleeding until its full.

You could drain the block after you flush it, so that you can get more demineralised water in there (and less tap water). But thats up to you. Pretty good idea too actually.

Drain the block...by taking out the drain plug from the block?? if so where is that,everybody talks about it but i cant find anywhere that shows a pic of it or anything?? Do i have to take parts out to get to this plug??

Thanks for all your help mate.

Edited by TMW-R34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013271
Share on other sites

Drain the block...by taking out the drain plug from the block?? if so where is that,everybody talks about it but i cant find anywhere that shows a pic of it or anything?? Do i have to take parts out to get to this plug??

Thanks for all your help mate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013285
Share on other sites

he already told you where it was, what else do you need?

Exhaust side, below runner 5 and 6. About half way down the block just under the water line for the turbo.

Approx 12mm hex head and extremely tight. Make sure you locktite it back up when you are finished.

Also make sure you have the ignition on with the heater on when you are flushing the system as it will be full of old coolant also.

all i do is remove the bottom rad hose and a heater hose, turn the heater on then put a garden hose into the heater hose. flush it till clean water comes out of the radiator, heater core and block. add 4 liters of coolant and job done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013529
Share on other sites

I found out the hard way just how much water stays in the block the other day..

Radiator was out etc, gave the waterpump a tap with a bit of 4x2 to break the seal, and i swear i got 2-3litres out of it.

Took well over 6l to fill it back up again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302219-engine-block/#findComment-5013889
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, it will take a fair amount of solution but the sodium citrate + citric acid + detergent is cheap stuff. Use laundry detergent instead of dish soap if you want to reduce the bubbles, also you could just buy sodium citrate and add some citric acid to the mix until you get to a weakly acidic solution if you don't feel like dealing with all the bubbling generated by adding everything together. For a fuel tank you need quite a lot of distilled water but it's probably worth the effort.
    • Actually looks like a Nitrous setup now 馃槅
    • @robbo_rb180 I already have a NEO head on the shitbox 馃槑 Just needs beehive springs so I can rev it past the 8600 rpm limiter, then again pointless too, turbo is out of puff lol. Wen da gods let me win lotto eh?
    • Everyone I know with a90 supra at time attack aren't having issues with 3-5 fast laps so far and one is decent powered one too. Saw a k24 swapped 86 with a 8hp70 and big slicks and aero which had no drama's at QR and Manton Park. I've stuck a 25 row cooler in my setup with 8hp45/50 in the hopes of keeping the oil cool as I plan on some racing next year that 20-30min sessions. I've also geared my car so won't be using 7th and 8th gear too. @Dose Pipe Sutututu just needs to get that samsonas in already and have that tassie guy fit a head and rev it too 11ty thousand rpm. 
    • My embedded systems thoughts have me sitting with GTS on this. Variation between same phone hardware, should be small. However, the internal "intensity" or "volume" amount that say Google passes to the app, will be quite different, as the underlying hardware will be passing different levels for the same volume to the Google OS. Until the app creator has had each individual phone, and set benchmarks and calibrations for each, the amount of error can be quite huge.   It can even be observed by using different phones, recording the same noise, and then playing it back, they end up soon ding different. A big reason for it, is even the different types of mics used in phones have different responses, and different frequency ranges. Then you need to get into the DSP, and the variations in those, their sample rates which then effect their frequency range, and then the quality of the DSP, and what type of hardware conversion they do to for the ADC within the DSP. Oh, and let's not forget at the low level phones are designed to cutout loud sounds. It's one of the reasons they suck in really loud environments (eg concerts). The louder you yell, the more you'll get cutout too Note DSP is Digital Signal Processor ADC is the analogue to data converter. I don't have any real data on what the variation would truly be, however, chat GPT says in general, their output is typically between +/-2dB to +/-5dB of what you're really measuring. So realistically, anything from 4 to 10dB variation is possible even with the same devices.
  • Create New...