Stalling Problem

[shaun123]

Hey guys,

i've been having this problem for a little while now and i was hopeful if anybody here could help me to pinpoint the problem?

Sometimes, when im driving along, the car will cut out and stall all together..

When i turn it back on it does this:

When i turn it back off, and on again, its fine ..

I was thinking maybe its a shoddy alarm installation?

I tried changing pods and cleaning the AFM.. could anybody help me out?

Car has a stock BOV, happens every so often and i dont know how to re-create the problem to show any mechanics!

Edited January 3, 2010 by shaun123

[lawler]

What computer you using my mates rb25det powered s13 dose the same

[shaun123]

as far as i know its the stock ECU.. i did a ECU diagnostic on it the other day and it showed code 55 which afaik is "all ok"

[shyr33]

Loss of fuel or spark maybe? how is the condition of the fuel pump, plugs, coilpacks?

Just throwing up some ideas.....

[shaun123]

yea, i was thinking maybe fuel pump, would that cause surging idle tho?

[GTR_Legend]

mine starts idleing like that as the alarm imobilisers kick in.

i have one of those brant pin pad alarms. it has a highjack setting.

once i get in the car, start it, close the door and put my seat belt on its enabled. so once any door is opened and my seatbelt in un-buckled after 40 secs or so it starts beeping at me and then the car cuts out

can be a pain sometimes...took me ages to work out when i first got the car...even took it to an auto elec and he didnt know.

[Casey1987]

I'm going thru the same problem as we speak.

A few mates have told me it could be a range of different things including air flow meter, fuel pump, coil packs, spark plugs, dirty throttle body blah blah blah.

I have an R33 RB25DET - very low k's so i don't think its the coil packs, i changed oil, fuel filters etc, i've taken it to a few mechanics and coincidently it runs fine and there are no errors that come up. Today i changed the spark plugs and it made a huge diffrence, now i can actually drive it up the road before it cuts out and starts coughing and spluttering. The spark plugs were black and smelt like fuel so its running really rich. I'm gonna get a new airflow meter bolted on next week to see if that's the problem - i'll keep ya posted.

If anyone else can help that'd be great. Even just some direction on what to replace next or even some suggestions on who i can take it to to get fixed around the Wollongong area. I'll take it to Syd if i have too.

Good luck

Casey

[shaun123]

yeh.. i've tried changing all the filters and basic things but it keeps happening.. Also sometimes if the aircon is on when the car is started, it stalls.. im not sure if this is related to the same problem?

[Craig SLO33]

hey man i just watched that link,, why is that blowoff valve sucking/blowing air,, it must be faulty hey....?

Edited January 14, 2010 by Craig SLO33

[DanShirts]

My r32 stalls like that once or twice a month... I still haven't figured it out. No codes, it just dies. Some times it will start up and be fine, others I have to sit and wait 30-40 minutes before it will start again. Not sure if it's related, but I can't get the timing lower than +25 even with the cas all the way ccw.

New fuel pump, new fuel filter, cleaned injectors, new fuel pressure reg, new ignitor, new battery, new spark plugs, borrowed coils from another car, new ignition loom, new (used) cas, new (used) ECU, new battery leads, pulled some extra earth leads, tested alternator, cleaned every electric connector on the car, clean & resoldered afms, cleaned aac, compression tested, boost leak tested, tested almost every wire in the loom.

Nothing helps. I'm so frustrated with it that I'm going to sell it next month if I don't get fix it.

Sorry to rant in your thread! I hope you have better luck than me!

[mad082]

i would be looking firstly at the IAC and AAC valves. they control the idle IAC, as well as the idle when things like the aircon is turned on or the steering is turned and more load is put on the engine at idle (AAC). these valves often get dirtied or blocked by carbon and don't operate properly because they become sticky. this is why sometimes turning the car off, or even just giving it a rev can be enough to make it idle better as you are making the valve move even more which can be enough to temporarily sort the issue out.

i'm guessing that isn't your car in the video and you are just using it as an example of what the car runs like? if so then the above is what i would do. if it is your car (even though the video is from october 08 and plenty of people have said what the problem is in the comments) then i would plumb the bov back in to where it's supposed to recirculate to (between the AFM and turbo) and that will solve the issue.

[Casey1987]

Turns out mine was Air flow meter - only cost $130 second hand from wreckers.