Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just bought this R-34 GT-T (98) 2.5 L 2 door recently, it seems to overheat only on 35degree days or higher especially when running the a/c. Makes no difference if im in traffic or crusing down the motorway, i make sure coolant is there, any suggestions or help with this ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302388-gt-t-overheating-assistance-plz/
Share on other sites

with these thing hard to say i would be getting the cooling system pressure tested, also think about basic things like replace the thermostat, radiator cap, coolant and maybe get the radiator cleaned out professionally in case its blocked.... if non of that helps maybe its got a blown hg slowly on its way.... you would hope not thou.....

Edited by rgr34
with these thing hard to say i would be getting the cooling system pressure tested, also think about basic things like replace the thermostat, radiator cap, coolant and maybe get the radiator cleaned out professionally in case its blocked.... if non of that helps maybe its got a blown hg slowly on its way.... you would hope not thou.....

cheers. i did get the first things done already, maybe now ill get the radiator/head gasket checked out professionaly.

Which is a good mechanic to take skylines for servicing with decent price?

Same thing just happened to me. Only just made it home so I was lucky in that regard. Smoke was coming out of the radiator hose and somewhere from the back of the engine to, couldn't see where it was definitely coming though.

Radiator hose was loose so I'll tighten that up and top up water & coolant levels once the engine has cooled down...and if it still overheats then I'll be coming back to this thread needing help haha

My clutch is pretty f***ed at the moment, although I didn't think that would be a cause to the car overheating?

So I put the radiator hose back in place and topped up the radiator with water. Yet it still overheats, this time its spitting and steaming from the top radiator hose (radiator end) and also, when I hit boost, the car basically starts shaking. Whats up with that?

My clutch is pretty f***ed at the moment, although I didn't think that would be a cause to the car overheating?

So I put the radiator hose back in place and topped up the radiator with water. Yet it still overheats, this time its spitting and steaming from the top radiator hose (radiator end) and also, when I hit boost, the car basically starts shaking. Whats up with that?

I mean the fan clutch.

there ae plenty of things to check before looking at headgasket, etc when it comes to heating issues.

first is to bleed the system. this is free and a good place to start. also check the clutch fan while you are at it as it's something you can check yourself. also check for any crap between the radiator and the aircon dryer/radiator. this can sometimes get a bit blocked up and educe airflow if the car is often parked unde a tree and leaves fall onto the front bar and get sucked through the grill when the car is started.

next is to replace the thermostat as this is something that does need to be replaced over time and would probably be the cause of a lot of heating issues. replace the coolant while you are at it.

then you could get the radiator professionally cleaned. in my opinion radiator flushes don't do crap as they don't get out the build up of crap that blocks the radiator core.

next on the list is the water pump. if the impellor in this is worn it won't pump the water fast enough and cause heating issues (anyone that has ever owned an outboard will know all about impellors and water pumps)

unless there is a reason to check the headgasket (such as oil and water mixing together) or bubles in the radiator when the car is running or the car is hard to start then when it does start blows a heap of white smoke for a short amount of time i don't usually bother. and milky oil or coolant isn't always the sign of a blown headgasket. i've had 2 blow and not ended up with the milk of death, but instead ended up with coolant in the cylinders.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...