Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i was look at getting a set of buddy club p1 plus II 19" and a 9.5" width with offset +22 all round, would these fit with a 245/30/19 tyre size on the front and a 265/30/19 on the back, i have a 04 v35 coupe with brembos anyone know if this will fit?

I believe it will fit, but you are always better off trying them out to see how it looks first. You may not be happy with the offsets..

I am running 20x8.5 +11 front, and 20x9.5 +18 rear. No issues.

you can fit 9.5" 22+ on the front, but your tyres are not ideal and not recommended. It'll stuff up your Speedo reading badly.

I have 19x9.5 22+ and 19x10.5 22+

Tyre is 245/35 front and 275/35 rear.

My speedo on 100kph and GPS or speedo reader on highway says 95-97kph.

Edited by pw350gt

19x9.5 et22 will fit on the front no problem, the rears will have plenty of clearance.

reconsider your tyre profile as mentioned by pw350gt

Hi guys they sold out of those offsets in the buddy clubs, does anyone know if i can run 19x10 with 22 offset on the front, same car v35 coupe with brembo's, i am looking at rpf1's. Cheers.

Hi guys they sold out of those offsets in the buddy clubs, does anyone know if i can run 19x10 with 22 offset on the front, same car v35 coupe with brembo's, i am looking at rpf1's. Cheers.

I doubt that. Too wide

Hi guys they sold out of those offsets in the buddy clubs, does anyone know if i can run 19x10 with 22 offset on the front, same car v35 coupe with brembo's, i am looking at rpf1's. Cheers.

They'll definitely fit if you have adjustable camber arms that permit more neg. I've seen 10.5" wide wheels with a +15 offset on a 350Z before. The bottom of the wheels did stick out a lot due to the size and extra camber, which made it seem a bit like a cop-spec track-only car.

With the stock arms, you'll be pushing it. Maybe with a narrow tyre, but the front flange might touch the guard if you load it up enough.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...